Alcohol, Legends, liqueur, Liquor, Myths, Wine

Urban Legends

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THERE AREN’T MANY things more amusing to me than urban legends.  I’m always fascinated by the things people will believe without ever verifying the facts or challenging the common sense that we were all born with.  We’ve all heard an urban legend before.  Even Santa Claus himself is part of urban lore.  There is one legend in particular that always makes me laugh.  It states that the modern image of Santa that we are all familiar with was created by the Coca-Cola Company.  This hardly makes sense to me, but there are many who believe it.  The image of the Santa that we know is a hybrid, descended from St. Nicholas, whose outward appearance and history were created and shaped by many people over the course of many, many years until he morphed into the familiar jolly old fat man in a red and white costume who lives at the North Pole and delivers gifts to little girls and boys on Christmas eve.  It should make perfect sense that what we know as Santa Claus existed long before Coco-Cola began adorning their cans with his image.

What does this have to do with bartending?  I’m glad you asked.  A friend suggested that I look at some urban legends related to drinking.  You’ve probably heard some of these stories yourself and you’ve probably thought that, taken with a grain of salt, they must be true.  Let’s have a look at a few to find out what is fact and what is fiction.

The first one is probably the most often quoted urban legend with respect to alcohol.  The story goes that one of the ingredients in Jägermeister  is deer blood.  This rumor usually traces back to two facts.  The first is that the label of a Jägermeister bottle has a picture of a stag on the front of it.  The second is that Jägermeister is German for a phrase that loosely translates to master hunter.  Combine this with the fact that Jägermeister boasts having one or two secret spices in the recipe and you could understand how this rumor spread to every corner of the globe.

Jägermeister is made with 56 herbs, roots, and spices.  These ingredients are ground and reduced to macerates by being steeped in cold water and alcohol for approximately three days.  The resulting extract is filtered and then stored in oak barrels for at least a year before being bottled.  If blood were one of the secret ingredients, the brewing process could not be easily or accurately reproduced because it would break down, rendering each batch unusable.  If that isn’t enough to convince you that there is no blood in Jägermeister, keep in mind that there is no way on Earth that the U. S. Department of Agriculture would sanction the sale of a product that has deer blood in it.

Sulfites are another misrepresented entity in the bartending world.  It’s rumored that the sulfites in American-made red wine cause headaches/hangovers.  They are cited as the reason that when Americans drink American wines, they tend to drink white wines because they have no sulfites in them.  This is amusing on many levels.  First, there is no documented medical or scientific study to suggest that sulfites cause headaches/hangovers.  Second, red wines contain lower levels of sulfites than white wines.  Third, although it is not required to be listed on the labels, many imported wines contain higher sulfite levels than domestic wines.

Here are some other facts.  Europeans have been making wine for hundreds of years.  They invented the art of using additives to improve wine.  They spent hundreds of years studying the effects of sulfur in wine.  Most notably, they discovered that you can’t make good wine without using sulfur.  Combine that with the fact that we, Americans, learned everything we know about wine making from European wine makers and we, like them, have endeavored to improve upon their work.  The bottom line is that ALL wine contains sulfites.  Our bodies even produce sulfites on a daily basis.  If you eat shellfish, guacamole, sushi, pizza, or cheese, then you’re consuming more sulfites than are found in most wines.

So, unless you are actually allergic to sulfites, you probably don’t have to worry about them being in your wine.  Why European wines don’t cause headache/hangovers is an easy question to answer.  Most Americans visiting Europe do so on vacation.  This equates to a more relaxed atmosphere free of the daily stresses of their normal lives.  Consuming wine under these conditions as opposed to drinking under the stress of kids, pets, and the daily grind probably makes all the difference in the world.  Just a theory, but you are welcome to put it to the test the next time you’re in Europe.  When you’re back at home, try consuming those wines again.  The results of your experiment should be interesting.

The last urban legend I’d like to tackle this week is the use of copper pennies to defeat the breathalyzer test.  I’ve heard this one a million times and I know that it doesn’t work, but there are so many out there who believe that it will get them out of a DUI.  The rumor is that the high copper content of pennies helps negate the results of a breathalyzer test.  Two things make this urban legend false.  The first is that since 1982, pennies have been made of 97.5% zinc with only a coating of copper.  The second is that no matter how many coins you put in your mouth, it will not hinder the chemical reaction that the breathalyzer is designed to measure: the reaction between the amount of alcohol on the breath and the contents of the magic vial inside the breathalyzer device.  Stuffing too many pennies in your mouth may keep you from being able to use the breathalyzer properly, but eventually, the police officer is going to make you spit them out.  Before you ask, burping doesn’t hinder the test either.  You can burp to your heart’s content, but it will not help.  Neither will Certs, Tic Tacs, ice, mustard, celery, peanut butter, raw potatoes, salted peanuts, Diet Coke, or candy made from ginger.

So, there you have it — a few urban legends debunked.  This  post was not an attempt to make fun of anyone.  It was meant to get at the truth about some of the more common urban myths related to alcohol.  I hope that you’ll walk away feeling more enlightened about the ways of the world.  I also hope that you’ll pass this information along to those who aren’t as enlightened as we are.

Alcohol, Liquor, Tequila

Tequila

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tequila

NOT LONG AGO, I did a series of articles on American-made liquors.  It was an interesting exercise because it gave me a chance to sample some really cool liquors that I wouldn’t have taken the time to try otherwise.  Recently, someone pointed out that I didn’t talk about American made tequila.  There was a reason for that omission.

Tequila is a Blue Agave-based distillate made primarily in the area surrounding the city of Tequila, located about 40 miles northwest of Guadalajara, and in the highlands of the Jalisco, both located in Mexico.  For the Blue Agave impaired, this particular agave plant grows in high altitude in sandy soil.  It is known by several other names, including maguey, mezcal, and tequila agave.  Tequila is produced by removing the heart of the blue agave when it is twelve years old.  At this point, the plant can weigh as much as 200 pounds.  The red volcanic soil that surrounds Jalisco and Guadalajara are well suited for growing this particular plant.

The reason that I didn’t cover American-made tequila is that Mexico has claimed exclusive international rights to the word tequila and threatens legal action against tequila manufacturers in other countries.  This suggested that a search for American-made tequila might be in vane.

Although the Aztecs were the first to produce a fermented agave-based beverage, Tequila as we know it first appeared in the sixteenth century near what is now known as the city of Tequila.  During this time, the Spanish had begun to explore this particular region.  As their supply of brandy began to dwindle, they began to distill an agave-based spirit.  Historians would later declare this to be the first distillate produced in North America.  It wasn’t until the late 19th century that tequila was exported to the United States.

The tequila that we enjoy today is most often about 40% alcohol by volume, although there are some that can be as high as 55% ABV.  These are usually diluted with water to reduce its harshness.  Some of the high-end brands are distilled to 40% ABV or 80 proof without the addition of water as a diluting agent.

There are two basic types of tequila: those made from 100% agave and those labeled as mixtos.  Mixtos tequilas use no less than 51% agave with other sugars used to make up the remainder.  Glucose and fructose are the most commonly used sugars.  There are five categories for bottled tequila: Blanco or plata, Joven or oro, Reposado, Anejo, and extra Anejo.  Blanco refers to a clear un-aged spirit that is bottled immediately after distillation.  At most, it is aged for two months in stainless steel or neutral oak barrels.  Joven is a blend of silver tequila with Reposado and/or Anejo and/or extra Anejo tequila.   Reposado is aged for at least two month, but less than a year in oak barrels.  Anejo must be aged for a minimum of one year, but less than three years in oak barrels, while Extra Anejo is aged for at least three years in oak barrels.  This last category was established in 2006.

For those tequilas that are aged in oak barrels, there are certain guidelines that must be followed.  The oak barrels should come from the U. S., France or Canada and should be white oak.  In some instances, the oak is charred in order to impart a smoky flavor.  Barrels used to age other liquors such as Scotch, whiskey and wine are often sought in order to give the finished product a distinct flavor.

One of my favorite tequila stories involves doing shots of tequila that contained worms.  I recall being in a bar in San Diego where you could down a shot of tequila with a worm in it in order to receive a t-shirt touting your glorious deed.  Contrary to popular belief, tequila does not come with a worm in it.  There are certain mezcals that are sold that way, but this was apparently a marketing stunt perpetrated in the 1940’s that continues to this very day.  In actuality, the worm is the larvae of a moth, Hypopta agavis, which actually lives on the agave plant.  Finding one of these larvae on the plant during processing is a sign of infestation, which signals a lower quality product.  So, avoid these products at all costs.

Quite a few of us have experienced the tequila shot.  The rim of the shot glass is usually salted and there is generally a slice of lime to accompany your shot.  To consume the shot, you first lick the salt, then gulp the shot of tequila and suck the slice of lime.  You would be ridiculed in Mexico for doing this because in that part of that world, tequila is generally enjoyed straight.  My favorite way to enjoy tequila is in my favorite margarita.  For those who have not seen this recipe before, it appears at the top of my cocktail favorites list.  It’s called the St. Rita.  To make it, pour two parts Tequila Blanco, one part St. Germain liqueur, and 3/4 part freshly squeezed lime juice in a shaker.  Fill the shaker with ice and shake vigorously.  Strain the contents into a rocks glass filled with ice.  Garnish with a lime and enjoy.  This is another great cocktail for the summer months and a perfect way to enjoy your favorite tequila.

So, there you have it — tequila un-shot.  Some of my worst nights as a pre-twenty-five year old were spent trying to figure out why tequila was not my friend.  These days, I’m happy to be able to say that I survived those years mostly unscathed and with a brand new appreciation for this once evil liquid.  As always, when enjoying your favorite blue agave-based distilled spirit, please drink responsibly.

Alcohol, liqueur

Vermouth: Bar Nemesis?

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vya-3-packIF YOU LOOK up the word malign in any standard English dictionary, you’ll find the following definition: to speak harmful untruths about; speak evil of; slander; defame.  If I was in charge of choosing the descriptive pictures that accompany some words in the dictionary, I’d place a picture of a bottle of vermouth next to the word malign.  Nothing on Earth has been more maligned than vermouth, except maybe Wes Craven’s movie The People Under the Stairs.  With a renewed interest in classic cocktails, I thought that it would be a good idea to take a look at the most disparaged bottle on the bar so that we can understand what it is and why it is an integral part of some of the best known classic cocktails.

Vermouth is a fortified wine to which botanicals are added.  The name vermouth is derived from the German word wermut or the Anglo-Saxon word wermod which both mean wormwood.  Wormwood was known by ancient civilizations in Rome, Greece, and Egypt for its medicinal powers.  Since wormwood is extremely bitter, sugar and spices were combined with it to make it more palatable.  During the late 18th century an Italian named Antonio Carpano began fortifying cheap wine with a distilled spirit, most notably brandy, in an attempt to not only improve its flavor, but to extend the life of the wine.  He would then add wormwood and other spices such as cloves, juniper, nutmeg, citrus peel, coriander, ginger, sage, chamomile, cinnamon and hops.  It is thought that he was inspired by a German wine flavored with wormwood and this is probably why he called his creation vermouth.

There are several different types of vermouth, ranging from the dry vermouth used in martinis, to the very sweet vermouth that is consumed as an aperitif.  As early as the 1830’s, vermouth began to appear in the U. S.  During that time, dry vermouth was referred to as French while sweet vermouth was called Italian.  This distinction was based on their country of origin, but these days those terms are no longer in vogue.  It is known that by 1853, the French company Noilly Prat was shipping its dry white vermouth to places like New Orleans and San Francisco.  This should not be surprising since both cities were heavily populated with citizens of French decent.  By the 1860’s, sweet red vermouth from Italy had made significant inroads in New York.

Before long, people started to take notice of this vino vermouth.  This led to experimentation by the bar-men of the day in New York City and culminated with the creation of the Vermouth Cocktail — a very simple drink consisting of two ounces of sweet vermouth with a piece of lemon peel and a few cubes of ice served in a stemmed tulip-shaped glass.  Like many of the cocktails of that era that included ingredients containing herbs and spices, the Vermouth Cocktail was quite often prescribed as a remedy for hangovers.  It was also preferred by those who did not like to start the day with a hangover because the low alcohol content of the drink made its consumption less painful the next morning.

The creation of the Vermouth Cocktail came at a time when an interesting transition for bartenders and their clientele was beginning to occur.  Bar patrons’ palates began to mature and  their tastes began to move away from cocktails that were made simply by pouring liquor over ice and adding a few dashes of bitters to it.  Sometime around the mid-1860’s, someone began blending sweet vermouth with brandy, rye, whiskey and gin.  These new concoctions were complex and flavorful with less of an impact on one’s ability to leave the bar under one’s own power after consuming a few of them.  The first of these amazing cocktails was the Manhattan which paved the way for the Martinez and the king of all cocktails — the Martini.

So why has something so important to the creation of three of the most important classic cocktails become so reviled?  That’s a good question.  One theory is that not only is vermouth misunderstood, but also mistreated.  Since vermouth is a wine, it should probably be treated as such.  Once opened, it will oxidize in a relatively short time.  That means that its flavor will change in short order.  Consequently, if you’re not there when the bottle is opened, you’re probably not going to get the vermouth when it’s at its best.  To remedy this, once opened, do not throw away the cap.  Air causes oxidation, so putting a pour spout on the bottle will not help your cause.  Next, when not in use, store it in the refrigerator.  It’s probably also a good idea to chill it before you open it for the first time.  Chilling it will slow the oxidation process.  Also, tasting the vermouth when you open it for the first time gives you a sense of its flavor profile giving you a point of reference that allows you to determine when it may be time to replace it.

Another thing to keep in mind is quality.  When vermouth was created, it was as a way to salvage really bad wine.  These days, that is not the case.  Artisan vermouth producers such as Vya are making well-crafted products that are not only great for making cocktails, but good enough that many chefs have begun to replace white wine with dry vermouth for cooking.  These same chefs are even pairing vermouth with meals as either an aperitif or digestif.

So, there you have it — vermouth un-vilified.  As vermouth begins to reemerge on bars and become more appreciated as a legitimate ingredient in cocktails and as a aperitif and digestif, I hope that more of you take the opportunity to experience this red-headed stepchild of the cocktail world.  If you’re feeling daring this weekend, stop by your local liquor outlet and purchase a small bottle of sweet vermouth.  It can be enjoyed just as you’d enjoy a glass of port or sherry and it’s very good.  Maybe you’re preparing a meal that calls for white wine as an ingredient.  Why not substitute that ingredient with dry vermouth?  Martini & Rossi has been around for well over 150 years and has a great reputation, while new comers like Vya are breaking new ground with their high-quality artisan creations.  As always, whether you’re enjoying a cocktail that blends your favorite liquor with vermouth or you’re trying it as an aperitif or digestif, please drink responsibly.

Alcohol, Scotch

Single Malt Scotch — Unloched

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Recently, I was asked the following question:  “What, exactly, is Single Malt Scotch?”  I love these kinds of questions the most.  Not because I know the answer, but because the answer is usually a surprise for the person that asked the question.

Single Malt Scotch is a type of whisky, distilled by a single distillery, usually in a pot still, using malted barley, in Scotland.  All Scotch whisky, including Single Malt Scotch must be distilled in Scotland and matured in oak casks in Scotland for at least three years.  Most Single Malts are matured for much longer.  The word single indicates that all the malts in the bottle come from a single distillery.  The word malt indicates that the whisky is distilled from a single malted grain.  In the case of Single Malt Scotch, barley is always the grain used.

The distillation of whisky has taken place in Scotland for at least 500 years.  The first written record of it dates back to 1494 with an entry on the famous Exchequer Rolls.  The years that followed saw the various governments of Scotland taxing the production of whisky to the point where most of Scotland’s whisky was produced illegally.  By 1823, the Scottish Parliament passed an act making the commercial distillation of  whisky more profitable, while imposing severe punishments on landowners with unlicensed distilleries on their property.  A man by the name of George Smith was the first to receive a license for a distillery under the new law.  This distillery, Glenlivet, was founded in 1824 and still exists today.

All Single Malt Scotch goes through a batch production process.  At the time that it is bottled, various batches are mixed together to achieve consistent flavors from one bottling to the next.  Water is the most important ingredient in the production of single malts and is used in each phase of  the process.  It is first added to the barley to promote germination.  It is mixed with ground barley to create mash.  It is also used to dilute the whisky before it is mature and again before bottling.  Most distilleries use different water sources for the different steps.  Most modern distilleries use distilled water for diluting the whisky before it is put into casks.  They also use distilled water to dilute the whisky to 40-46% alcohol by volume before bottling.  Some distilleries, like Bruichladdich, use local spring water for dilution before casking.

Barley is the other key ingredient in single malts.  Barley is malted by soaking the grain in water for 2-3 days and then allowing it to germinate in order to produce the necessary enzymes required to convert starch into sugar.  Before modern techniques were developed, most distilleries had their own malting floor.  The germinating seeds were regularly turned there.  These days, distilleries use commercial malt companies that make malts for individual distilleries to their exact specifications.  After 3-5 days, the germination process is stopped.  Then the germinated barley is dried using hot air produced by burning oil or coal or by using an electric heating source.  At this point, peat smoke is introduced to add phenols, a smoky aroma and flavor to the whisky.  The best examples of this  type of Single Malt Scotch come from the Isle of Islay.  I’ve tried a couple of them, most notably Lagavulin and Laphroaig.  Lagavulin is very smooth and delicious.  Laphroaig, on the other hand, has a very peaty aroma and taste.  It’s definitely unique among the Single Malts I’ve tasted.

Once the malt is dried, it is milled into a coarse flour, known as grist.  It is then added to hot water to activate the enzymes which will convert the starch to sugar.  The long starch chains are broken down into glucose, maltose, and maltroise.  The sugary liquid that is produced is called wort.  Yeast is added to the wort which is then contained in large vessels, usually thousands of liters in size.  They are either made of stainless steel or Oregon Pine.  The yeast consumes the sugar and produces alcohol and carbon dioxide.  You’ll probably recognize this process.  It’s called fermentation and we’ve seen this in the production of beer.  When this process is complete, we are left with something known as wash.

The wash is pumped into a copper pot still, a wash still, for distillation.  It is heated to boil off the alcohol.  The vapor is captured in a condenser that has been submerged in cool water which causes the vapor to condense back into a liquid.  This liquid has an alcohol content of 20-40%.   From here, the liquid is pumped into a second still, a spirit still, and distilled a second time.  This final spirit, called new-make spirit, has about 60-70% alcohol content. It should be noted that some spirits get a third distillation.

At this point, the new-make spirit is placed in oak casks to mature.  Scottish law requires that all Scotch whisky must be aged a minimum of 3 years in oak casks in Scotland.  You’ve probably noticed that most of the Single Malt Scotches at your favorite bar are aged much longer.  It’s not uncommon for a Single Malt to be aged for 20 years or more.  Like cognac, which I’ve written about recently, the alcohol content decreases during the maturation process in the cask due to evaporation.  And like cognac, this loss is referred to as the angels’ share.

The type of casks used for aging have a profound effect on the finished product.  Single malts are too delicate to be aged in new oak casks because new oak can overpower the whisky with vanillin (the primary component of vanilla bean extract) and tannin.  Instead, used casks are used.  The most common practice is to purchase used casks from American whiskey makers.  You may recall that U. S. law require bourbon and Tennessee whiskey to be aged in new oak casks, so after their first use they are taken out of service.  Another recent trend is the practice of using sherry casks.  They are far more expensive than bourbon casks, so they are rarely used.  One of the benefits of using sherry casks is that it imparts the flavor of the sherry and gives the whisky a heavier body and a deep amber color.  Single Malt Scotch that has been matured in sherry cask are highly sought after.  Macallan Distillery actually builds casks, leases them to sherry cellars in Spain, and then has them shipped back to Scotland to be used to make Scotch.

Finally, after a bit of aging, the whisky is bottled.  The bottle can only contain malted barley produced at a single distillery.  Otherwise, the contents are referred to as a vatted malt or a blended malt.  Single malt whisky mixed with grain whisky is called blended Scotch whisky.  There is no law to dictate who bottles the finished product.  They can either be bottled by the distillery or by an independent bottler.  The age on the bottle refers to the age of the youngest malt in the mix.  Mixing of whiskies from several different years is done in order to maintain consistency.  One recent trend has been to bottle cask strength or undiluted whisky which can have a alcohol content approaching 60%.  There are also Single Cask offerings which is whisky bottled from a single cask rather than blended from multiple casks.

Before I finish, I wanted to add a couple of final notes.  Unlike wine, once bottled, whisky does not continue to mature.  Also, its quality doesn’t diminish once opened.  Lastly, Drambuie, the honey and herb flavored golden Scotch liqueur, also made in Scotland, is made with a Single Malt Scotch called Talisker. Talisker is made on the Isle of Skye and is my personal favorite when Single Malt Scotch is my flavor of the day.

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Shaken or Stirred?

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OF ALL THE things that bartenders do behind the bar, unnecessary use of the shaker is the one thing that annoys me the most.  For most, the sound of the shaker is music to their collective ears.  It signifies that the bartender is preparing the cocktail that they just ordered.  But is he or she really preparing it, or is he or she destroying it?  Believe it or not, there is a clear set of rules to determine whether a drink should be shaken or stirred.  Most of today’s bartenders don’t know that these rules exist, so they don’t follow them, and as in real life, when you don’t follow the rules you usually get unexpected results.

So, what are the rules?  There are only two rules and they are very simple.  Shake a cocktail if the recipe includes fruit juice, sour mix, simple syrup, cream liqueurs, eggs, dairy, or any other thick or flavorful mixers.  Examples of this are the Mai Tai, Cosmopolitan, Brandy Flip, and the Margarita.  Stir a cocktail if the recipe includes distilled spirits and very light mixers only.  Examples of this are the Martini, Manhattan, Gibson, Gimlet, and Sazerac Cocktail.

You’re probably thinking that if these are the rules, then why don’t bartenders follow them?  I was never taught these rules when I was first promoted to bartender all those many years ago.  I read about them as I became interested in the history of cocktails.  My guess is that not many bartenders are aware of the rules these days.  Those who are aware of them ignore them because they are lazy.  Yes, lazy.  Doing everything the same way cuts down on steps and allows the bartender to seemingly be more efficient.  However, there is a problem with this approach.

Cocktails like the martini were developed with the method used to make them in mind.  Martinis are meant to be clear.  Stirring this cocktail doesn’t change it, it just blends the ingredients.  Shaking it not only clouds it, but changes it fundamentally.  To prove this scientifically I did an experiment.  I made two martinis, one shaken and one stirred, with the resulting cocktails strained into martini glasses.  The results are worth noting.  After about 20 seconds, the most obvious difference was that the martini that was stirred remained clear while the martini that was shaken was cloudy, but there were other subtle differences.  The shaken martini was 26 degrees Fahrenheit, 22 degrees colder than the stirred martini.  This affected the taste of the drinks.  The shaken martini was too cold for me to be able to discern the nuances of the blending of gin and vermouth.  The stirred martini was far more flavorful at 48 degrees Fahrenheit.  The most startling difference was the volume of liquid in the individual glasses.  The shaken martini had an ounce more volume than the stirred martini.  The difference was shards of ice and air introduced from the shaking process.  Obviously, the ice shards eventually melt and dilute the drink, but the introduction of air also makes a difference with respect to volume as well.  Do you really want your $17 martini to be too cold and too diluted for you to be able to enjoy the perfectly balanced blend of gin and vermouth?  Probably not.

Shaking a cocktail like a Mai Tai or a Hurricane does no harm.  Again, these drinks were developed with the knowledge that they would be shaken, so the blend of fruit juices, distillates, sugar, etc. does not fundamentally change the drink.  It does introduce the same air and ice shards, but the thickness and the flavor of the ingredients overcome this.

I’ll anticipate your next question and answer it as well.  Why does James Bond order his signature martini shaken, not stirred if the rules state that a martini should be stirred.  James Bond is a fictional character created by Ian Fleming in 1953.  Since the rules for making drinks had been around for a while by the time Mr. Fleming began writing and since he was probably aware of them, I will assume that he used that fact to help create the Bond persona — a brash, heroic, womanizing rule breaker.  He orders his drink that way, not just because he likes it that way, but because it’s not the way it should be ordered.  You, the observer, know that he should know better, which somehow makes him even more suave and debonair than he appears on the surface.  I have to believe that Fleming was clever enough to know the rules and use them to his advantage.  This is obviously just a theory, but careful consideration will show that I’m probably on to something here.

So, there you have it, cocktails shaken and stirred.  Things are so much simpler when you break them down scientifically.  These days the line between shaking and stirring has been blurred.  Mostly because things have been done differently for so long that no one knows the difference any more.  The thing to keep in mind is that most cocktails, at least the classics, were developed with the rules in mind.  That means that bending or breaking the rules takes away from the delicate balance that was intended when the cocktail was created.  A Manhattan, an Old Fashioned, a Mint Julep, a Mojito, and a Sazerac Cocktail should always be stirred.  They should not be cloudy, frothy, or bubbly when they arrive at your table.  A Hurricane, a Margarita, Mai Tai, and a Singapore Sling should always be shaken.  But if that doesn’t happen, don’t yell at the bartender.  Just ask him if he wouldn’t mind making it differently the next time.  When he asks what you mean by differently, you can say shaken or stirred– which ever is appropriate.  Then compare the differences between the two preparations.  You’ll be surprised.

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Q & A

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bitters

I’VE GOTTEN QUITE a few interesting questions over the last couple of days, so I thought I’d take the time to answer them.  Let’s see what we have in the inbox this week.

What is bitters?

Believe it or not, bitters is classified as an alcoholic beverage.  Despite being available on your grocers’ shelves, it weighs in at about 45% alcohol by volume (ABV).  That’s 90 proof if you’re counting at home.  The most common bitters, known as Angostura bitters, was developed in 1824 by a German physician living in Venezuela, Dr. Johann Gottlieb Benjamin Siegert, as a cure for sea sickness and stomach ailments.  It was later exported to England and Trinidad, where some creative minds began using it in cocktails.  Among its many uses, bitters can be used to stimulate your appetite.  When used in apéritifs and digestifs, bitters settles your stomach before a meal or before a night of drinking.

The most common ingredients in bitters are angostura bark, cascarilla, cassia, gentian, orange peel, and quinine.  The flavor of both Angostura bitters and Peychaud’s bitters is derived from gentian, a bitter herb.  Bitters is made by either infusing or distilling aromatic herbs, bark, roots, and fruits known for their flavor and/or their medicinal properties.

Several cocktails use bitters as a key ingredient.  Among those are the Sazerac Cocktail, the Manhattan, the Old Fashion, and the Pink Gin.  Brands of bitters that are most often used these days are Peychaud’s, Angostura, and Gammel Dansk.  Other beverages that fall under the category of bitters are Campari, Fernet Branca, Ramazzotti, Pimm’s No. 1, and Luxardo Amaro.

What are the other quality grades for Cognac?

As I mentioned recently, the official quality grades for Cognac were set forth by the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC).  The grading system helps give you an indication of the age of the liquid in your favorite bottle of Cognac.  The following list should help you understand what the letters on the bottle mean.

VS (Very Special) – This means that the youngest Cognac or brandy in the bottle has been stored for at least two years in a cask.
VSOP (Very Special Old Pale) – This means that the youngest Cognac or brandy in the bottle has been stored for at least four years in a cask.
XO (Extra Old) -This means that the youngest Cognac or brandy in the bottle has been stored for at least six years in a cask, but average much closer to twenty years.
Napoleon – This grade is equivalent to XO.
Extra A – Cognac or Brandy with this grade are aged for a minimum of six years.
Vieux – This grade falls between VSOP and XO.
Vieille Réserve – This means that the grade for this Cognac or brandy is beyond XO.
Hors d’âge (beyond age) – The BNIC states that this grade is equivalent to XO, but in practice this term is used to describe Cognac or brandy of the highest quality and its grade is beyond the official age scale.

What is Ouzo?

Ouzo is an anise-flavored apéritif that is produced in Greece.  It is made by distilling pure ethyl alcohol that is 96% ABV with anise in a copper still.  Other ingredients such as cinnamon, clove, and star anise can also be added.  Ouzo production does not include multiple distillations or fermentation.

The precursor to Ouzo, Tsipouro or Rakia, was consumed during the reign of the Byzantine Empire and continued to be enjoyed throughout the rise and fall of the Ottoman Empire.  A group of 14th century monks living in a monastery on Mount Athos are said to have helped develop what we know as Ouzo.  One of the many recipes that they used to make Tsipouro was flavored with anise.  This particular recipe eventually came to be known as Ouzo.  The Greek isle of Lesbos lays claim to producing what is considered modern Ouzo.  When the world-wide ban on Absinthe took place during the late 19th century, Ouzo was one of many anise-flavored products that gained in popularity.

The best way to enjoy Ouzo is straight up.  That’s my preferred method of consumption.  The traditional way to consume it is by pouring it over ice and mixing in a little water.  This causes the Ouzo to become cloudy and white, a process known as the Louching Effect.  It is a harmless reaction triggered by adding cold water to a beverage that contains anise.  It is a strong visual indicator that the beverage has been sufficiently diluted, making it less potent.  In the case of Ouzo, dilution isn’t necessary, but for those who enjoy Absinthe, dilution is vital since it is much more potent than Ouzo.  For those who don’t want to sip Ouzo alone, it pairs very well with appetizers such as calamari, clams, fried zucchini, salads, and sardines.

One word of caution when consuming Ouzo.  It is quite often referred to as a rather strong drink despite the fact that its ABV isn’t very high when compared to other liquors.  What makes it appear to be strong is its sugar content.  Sugar delays the absorption of ethanol in the stomach, giving the unsuspecting drinker the idea that he/she can drink more because they don’t feel drunk immediately.  Eventually, the cumulative effect will hit, thus the onset of sudden inebriation.  It is best to consume Ouzo with foods, especially those foods that contain fats or oils.  The presence of these foods in the upper digestive system prolongs the absorption of ethanol, which should ameliorate intoxication.

What is surfeit water?

Surfeit water is a medicinal liquid designed to alleviate the effects of overindulgence in eating or drinking.  The essential ingredients in these concoctions are alcohol, usually in the form of brandy or Aqua Vitae, dried fruits and poppy flowers.  Believe it or not, Papaver Rhoeas (corn poppy, field poppy, and red poppy) were often used.  This might not seem unusual at first, but it should be noted that this variety of poppy does not contain the alkaloids found in other opium producing varieties.  Evidence does suggest that there may be some mild sedative properties imparted by this particular species of poppy, which is probably one of the reasons it was used in this particular remedy for digestive discomfort.  Surfeit water was generally an aid prescribed by your local barkeep, not by your doctor.  The earliest documented use of the term surfeit water dates back to 1633.  It should be noted that during that century, there was very little distinction between a doctor and a barkeep.  The modern equivalent to this sort of remedy would be bitters or bitter liqueurs such as Fernet Branca and Ramazzotti Amore.  Cordials such as these are perfect digestive aids after a long evening of excess.

What is a Mickey Slim?

This question took a lot longer than I thought it would to be asked.  I intentionally mentioned it in my post on American-made gin just to see if anyone was paying attention.  I stumbled across the recipe while doing research and I was mildly surprised that such a drink could have ever existed.  But, I should never be surprised by the lengths that humans will go to in order to find the next out of body experience.  The Mickey Slim was a cocktail that had a short-lived existence during the 1940’s and 1950’s in the United States.  It was made by combining gin with DDT.  Yes, the insecticide dichlorodiphenyltrichloroethane.  The drink met its end when most countries banned the use of DDT because it was linked to numerous health problems.  Those who enjoyed this fine beverage claimed that its effects were similar to those experienced when consuming absinthe.  I shake my head at the thought of consuming this drink today.  I’m not even sure that I’d have tried it back then either.  One of the interesting notes on mixing it suggests using very small amounts of DDT because it’s not very water soluble.  That should have been a clue, not that its use as an insecticide wasn’t a big enough clue already.

Alcohol, liqueur

St. Germain

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Elderflower Liqueur

HAVE YOU EVER been sitting at a bar and noticed a really cool looking bottle that you’d never seen before?  Have you ever wanted to ask the bartender what it was, but were afraid that he’d look down his nose at you with disdain?  I know bartenders who would do that, so I don’t blame you for not asking.  Fear not.  Now you can ask me.  I had planned on starting this series a few months ago, but I never did, so today I’ll kick it off with an unusual looking bottle with a delightful liqueur inside called St-Germain.

St-Germain is an award winning liqueur made from the freshly handpicked flowers of Sambucus nigra – known as elderflower.  These wild blossoms grow in the foothills of the Alps and are very delicate.  In order to gather enough of the flowers during the 2-3 week window of blossoming, French farmers use specially rigged bicycles to deliver the elderflower blossoms to local depots.  Once picked, these fragile flowers are very short-lived.  Within a matter of a few days, they lose their delicate flavor and fragrance.

Freshness is the key to making St-Germain.  Most liqueurs made with elderflower are syrupy and non-alcoholic because they are extracted from freeze dried or frozen flowers.  Some refer to these beverages as cordials.  They are insanely sweet and very inconsistent.  Another difficulty with making liqueurs with elderflower is that traditional maceration processes yield very little flavor and other customary processes for extracting the nectar, such as pressing, cause the resulting liquid to taste bitter.

In order to create St-Germain, a new method of extracting the essence of the elderflower had to be invented.  Sadly, this method is a closely guarded family secret, so we may never know how it’s actually done.  Once extracted, the elderflower maceration is combined with eau-de-vie using an alembic still.  The next step is to blend the resulting spirit with a hint of citrus and a little sugar cane to enhance the elderflower blossoms’ natural flavor.  The finished product has a clean floral nose with hints of grapefruit zest, pear, and peach.  There are also notes of the fresh flavor of the elderflower which should remind you of honeysuckle.

St-Germain is very delicious by itself.  I like it chilled.  However, there are several cocktails that have this sweet liqueur as an ingredient.  My favorite is called The St-Rita.  It consists of 1 1/2 shots of Tequila Blanco, 1 1/2 shots of St-Germain, and 1/2-1/4 shot of freshly squeezed lime juice.  To make it, add all of the ingredients to a shaker along with ice.  Shake well and strain into a glass filled with ice.  A salted rim is optional.  Another option is to strain the mixture into a martini glass.

I’ve also created a drink with St-Germain as an ingredient.  If you’ve paid attention to my posts, you know that I always name my drinks after friends, but since I like to keep my friends anonymous in my posts, I’llcall my new drink The Summer Girl Cocktail.  The drink consists of 1 1/2 shots of St-Germain, 1 1/2 shots of Blue Curacao, and at least 4 ounces of Champagne.  To make it, add the St-Germain and Blue Curacao to a champagne flute.  Then top it off with the champagne.  Garnish the flute with an orange wedge.  It’s a very refreshing alternative to the Sunday morning mimosa.

So there you have it — a short, but sweet description of the mysterious bottle behind the bar.  I hope to continue revealing the secrets of the bottles from time to time.  Hopefully, I’ll cover the bottles that are of interest to you.

“Alcohol may be man’s worst enemy, but the bible says love your enemy.”