Category Archives: Cataluña

Cataluña, CAVA, DO, Riddling

DO Cava

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LOCATED WITHIN THE AUTONOMOUS Community of Cataluña is DO Cava. In Spain, DO or designation of origin is the name of a geographic region or specific area that is recognized for producing wine (or other products) that reflect the characteristics of that particular place. Cava was awarded its DO designation in 1986 and its only wine style is Espumoso (sparkling). 

The success of sparkling wine in Cava is due to the Raventós family from Penedès.  After visiting Champagne in 1872, Joseph Raventós i Fatjó created the first sparkling wine in Spain using the traditional method.  He called it Xampany.  It was remarkably successful, and production of this amazing new beverage increased with its popularity.  In 1888, Joseph’s son, Manuel Raventós Domènech, successfully produced a sparkling wine from Xarel.lo, Macabeo, and Paralleda, three grape varietals indigenous to the region. To this day, these grapes remain the dominant grapes used in the production of Cava. Cava is fully sparkling usually with lower acidity while being heavier on the palate than Champagne. It also tends to have less autolytic character (the smell of yeast) with more fennel and herbal notes on the nose.

As I mentioned earlier, Raventós called his creation Xampany.  That name was frowned upon by the French.  However, the name Cava didn’t appear until the mid-1950’s. Cava is a reference to the caves or cellars where the wine was made and stored. It wasn’t until 1972, with the creation of the Consejo Regulador de los Vinos Espumosos (Regulatory Council of Sparkling Wine) that the term Cava was officially recognized as the name of sparkling wine from Catalan made using the traditional method (the process used to make Champagne).

Spain is known for its innovations with respect to the wine industry.  In the 1970’s, Cataluña invented a semi-automated girasol, the precursor to the fully automated gyropallete.  This device helped accelerate the riddling process, an important, very tedious and time consuming, requirement in the production of traditional method sparkling wines.

Because the secondary fermentation process takes place within the individual bottles, sediment is formed as a byproduct.  Since the sediment is left inside the bottle for a long period of time, it will stick to the sides, leaving it visually unappealing.  Shaking the bottle will cause the sediment to cloud the wine.  Winemakers, instead, leave the bottles in racks with their necks tilted downward.  This allows gravity to pull the sediment downward toward the cork.  Every couple of weeks, the bottles are twisted (riddled) in both directions and tilted at more and more severe angles until all of the sediment is collected in the necks of the bottles.  At this stage, the sediment can be removed. All of this is important because sediment can alter the taste of sparkling wine as well as its appearance. In Champagne, this process is still largely done by hand.  This is very time consuming and amazingly expensive.   

Although Cataluña is still the original and spiritual home of Cava, today, the DO incorporates more than 150 municipalities spread out over seven autonomous regions within the borders of Spain.  These areas include País Vasco, Cataluña, La Rioja, Comunidad Valencia, Navarro, Aragón, and Extramadura. 95% of all Cava production still takes place in Penedes, located in Cataluña. Cava rosato (rosé) is also legally allowed to be produced. It requires a minimum of 25% red wine grapes, four of which are authorized for use within the DO. 

Sweetness levels for Cava are determined by the amount of dosage, a form of sweetener, added to the wine after disgorgement.  Disgorgement is the final step in the process of making sparkling wines using the traditional method. This step involves removing deposits of yeast collected in the neck of the bottle.  Sweetness levels, for Cava, from least sweet to sweetest are Brut Nature, Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Seco, Seco, Semi-Seco, Dulce.

To be labeled Cava, wines must be produced using the traditional method and aged for a minimum of 9 months on its lees. Lees is the name given to the yeast that’s added to the bottle during the secondary fermentation process. There are also special label designations for premium Cavas. The premium categories are Reserva, Gran Reserva, and Cava de Paraje Calificado.  Cava de Paraje Calificado (Qualified Single Vineyard Cava) is intended to increase the visibility of the highest quality cava produced in the region. This new classification was established in 2015 as a way to highlight the uniqueness of a specific terroir within a region. The requirements for this new classification are strict.  The vines must be at least 10 years old, the grapes must come from a single vineyard, must be harvested manually, must have lower than normal yields, must be vinified on the estate, must be labeled with a vintage, must be aged for a minimum of 36 months on the lees, sweetness level can only be Brut Nature, Extra Brut, or Brut, must be approved by an unbiased international taste panel, and production must be traceable from vineyard to shelf. For those unfamiliar with the term vinified, it is the name given to the process of converting grape juice into wine using fermentation.

I drink a lot of Cava and I do have favorites.  The first is La Barraca Brut Cava produced by Emendis in Penedes, Spain.  It’s made from 100% Xarel.lo. The vines are 40-years old and grow in soil that is largely clay-based. The estate dates back over 800 years and its name was derived from the family name of the eight female farmers who settled there.  I like this wine because it has fine bubbles and a bright yellow straw color.  The aromatics are intense with a profound aroma of anise complemented by nutmeg and thyme. At its core, there are notes of citrus that give a complex smokiness that hint at coconut and caramel. The palate reveals fruit that leads to a long, persistent finish. 

Another favorite is a Brut Rosé, also produced by Emendis.  It’s made from 100% Pinot Noir. The maceration process lasts for 8 hours, giving the wine its distinctive hue.  The natural elegance and high acidity associated with pinot noir is perfect for the production of rosé. It gives the wine a cherry color that is accented by pink salmon tones. The wine has persistent bubbles with rich aromas of wild raspberries and currants. There are subtle notes of toast and spices that unfold into a generous fruity finish.

I like Cava because it’s an inexpensive alternative to Champagne. And because of the nature of the culture that produces it, I enjoy the festive, fun overtones that I associate with my visit to Spain.  There are lots of interesting examples of Cava on the market and with the strict rules designed to guarantee quality, you’re sure to find something that you like. 

Albariza, Canary Islands, Cataluña, DOCa/DOQ, Lapilli, Llicorella, Priorat, Sherry, Sommelier, Spain, Wine

Playing in the Dirt: Spain

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I HAVE A LOT of nerdy wine friends. When we drink wine together, we don’t just drink it– we look at it, we smell it, we taste it, and we talk about it.  We’ve acquired quite the wine vocabulary over the years.  It’s the kind of jargon that probably sounds like a foreign language to anyone who hasn’t been initiated into our wine fraternity.  One of our favorite words is terroir.  It’s a French word that has no English translation. My favorite definition for terroir was written by Hugh Johnson, a renowned British wine writer.  For him, terroir is …much more than what goes on beneath the surface. Properly understood, it means the whole ecology of a vineyard: every aspect of its surroundings from bedrock to late frosts and autumn mists, not excluding the way a vineyard is tended, nor even the soul of the vigneron. This gives it the proper amount of mystery and the sense of the different levels and nuances involved in terroir. 

One of the things that gets overlooked when talking about terroir is soil.  This makes sense because to most people grape vines are plants and plants grow in dirt. Similar to that medium where you plant your garden every Spring.  Grape vines are different, however.  They can thrive in environments where typical plants would not survive.  Spain has a few unique soil types that not only allow grape vines to thrive, but, in some cases, influence the way wine made from those grapes will taste.

In the north eastern corner of Spain lies Cataluña. Within its borders is one of the smallest, yet most prestigious wine-producing regions in the world–DOQ Priorat.  It’s one of only two DOQ designated wine producing areas in Spain.  For those unfamiliar with European Union regulations with respect to wine, here’s a brief primer.  In the EU, a designation of origin (DO) denotes the name of a specific place where the wines exhibit the qualities and characteristics of the particular geographic environment from which they originate. The DOCa (DOQ in Cataluña) designation is awarded to DOs that have attained the highest levels of quality for an extended period of time. In Spain, this is the highest level that can be awarded. 

Priorat is completely surrounded by Serra de Montsant mountain range, which protects the vineyards from cold weather and harsh winds.  DOQ Priorat is known for red wines that are highly concentrated, mineral driven, and complex with notes of ripe berries and cured meat.  The palate is usually rich and intense, yet balanced and refreshing. The unique soil in this region is called Llicorella.  It’s a shallow, copper-colored, decomposed shale/slate with low organic content.  It’s extremely fragile, layered rock with fine texture.  Root systems of the vines have to constantly search for fractures in this type of soil to find nutrients and water.  Wine produced from grapes grown in Llicorella are DOQ Priorat’s signature. Whenever I see a wine from DOQ Priorat on a wine list, I order it.  I am such a fan of this style of wine and I have never been disappointed.

South and west of Cataluña is Andalucia.  This area is known for being the location where Tapas was invented.  It’s also known for Sherry. Sherry is a fortified wine made from grapes.  There are several different styles of Sherry that have a varying range of colors and flavors.  Part of the success of Sherry is due to the unique soil in which the grape vines grow.  It’s called Albariza. It has a characteristically white hue and is extremely rich in calcium carbonate.  It has a chalk content that ranges from 30-80% with limestone, clay, and sand to balance the mixture. What makes Albariza vital to the production of Sherry is its ability to reflect sunlight, retain humidity, and store water produced by winter rain by forming a hard crust on the surface during the hot summer months.  This allows the vines to thrive in an environment not necessarily suited for grape production. I love Sherry.  It’s very versatile.  One of my favorite cocktails is Manzanilla Sherry and tonic over ice.  It’s so delicious!

Six hundred miles south of Andalucia are the Canary Islands.  Most people don’t think of these remote islands as a place to find amazing wines, but the Canary Islands actually produce some of the world’s most highly sought-after wines.  What makes them so highly desirable is the soil found there.  It’s called Lapilli and it consists of a layer of small, porous, volcanic pebbles which blankets the topsoil. Lapilli filters rainwater and pulls moisture from the passing winds. It also helps prevent the evaporation of water in the soil beneath it.  The white wines produced here are tropical fruit driven with distinct saline and mineral notes.  The rosé and red wines are overtly savory with distinct minerality that produces a lingering finish. I haven’t had the opportunity to try them yet, but the next time I travel to Spain, I’m definitely taking the three-hour flight from Madrid to the Canary Islands to try a few of these amazing wines.

Whether you’re a wine nerd or a wine newbie, it’s always fun to try new things.  If you find yourself wanting to broaden your wine horizons, try some of the wine styles described above.  They will definitely give you a sense of how broad and how deep the wine spectrum truly is while exposing you to some wines you may not have otherwise been aware of.