I HAVE A LOT of nerdy wine friends. When we drink wine together, we don’t just drink it– we look at it, we smell it, we taste it, and we talk about it.  We’ve acquired quite the wine vocabulary over the years.  It’s the kind of jargon that probably sounds like a foreign language to anyone who hasn’t been initiated into our wine fraternity.  One of our favorite words is terroir.  It’s a French word that has no English translation. My favorite definition for terroir was written by Hugh Johnson, a renowned British wine writer.  For him, terroir is …much more than what goes on beneath the surface. Properly understood, it means the whole ecology of a vineyard: every aspect of its surroundings from bedrock to late frosts and autumn mists, not excluding the way a vineyard is tended, nor even the soul of the vigneron. This gives it the proper amount of mystery and the sense of the different levels and nuances involved in terroir. 

One of the things that gets overlooked when talking about terroir is soil.  This makes sense because to most people grape vines are plants and plants grow in dirt. Similar to that medium where you plant your garden every Spring.  Grape vines are different, however.  They can thrive in environments where typical plants would not survive.  Spain has a few unique soil types that not only allow grape vines to thrive, but, in some cases, influence the way wine made from those grapes will taste.

In the north eastern corner of Spain lies Cataluña. Within its borders is one of the smallest, yet most prestigious wine-producing regions in the world–DOQ Priorat.  It’s one of only two DOQ designated wine producing areas in Spain.  For those unfamiliar with European Union regulations with respect to wine, here’s a brief primer.  In the EU, a designation of origin (DO) denotes the name of a specific place where the wines exhibit the qualities and characteristics of the particular geographic environment from which they originate. The DOCa (DOQ in Cataluña) designation is awarded to DOs that have attained the highest levels of quality for an extended period of time. In Spain, this is the highest level that can be awarded. 

Priorat is completely surrounded by Serra de Montsant mountain range, which protects the vineyards from cold weather and harsh winds.  DOQ Priorat is known for red wines that are highly concentrated, mineral driven, and complex with notes of ripe berries and cured meat.  The palate is usually rich and intense, yet balanced and refreshing. The unique soil in this region is called Llicorella.  It’s a shallow, copper-colored, decomposed shale/slate with low organic content.  It’s extremely fragile, layered rock with fine texture.  Root systems of the vines have to constantly search for fractures in this type of soil to find nutrients and water.  Wine produced from grapes grown in Llicorella are DOQ Priorat’s signature. Whenever I see a wine from DOQ Priorat on a wine list, I order it.  I am such a fan of this style of wine and I have never been disappointed.

South and west of Cataluña is Andalucia.  This area is known for being the location where Tapas was invented.  It’s also known for Sherry. Sherry is a fortified wine made from grapes.  There are several different styles of Sherry that have a varying range of colors and flavors.  Part of the success of Sherry is due to the unique soil in which the grape vines grow.  It’s called Albariza. It has a characteristically white hue and is extremely rich in calcium carbonate.  It has a chalk content that ranges from 30-80% with limestone, clay, and sand to balance the mixture. What makes Albariza vital to the production of Sherry is its ability to reflect sunlight, retain humidity, and store water produced by winter rain by forming a hard crust on the surface during the hot summer months.  This allows the vines to thrive in an environment not necessarily suited for grape production. I love Sherry.  It’s very versatile.  One of my favorite cocktails is Manzanilla Sherry and tonic over ice.  It’s so delicious!

Six hundred miles south of Andalucia are the Canary Islands.  Most people don’t think of these remote islands as a place to find amazing wines, but the Canary Islands actually produce some of the world’s most highly sought-after wines.  What makes them so highly desirable is the soil found there.  It’s called Lapilli and it consists of a layer of small, porous, volcanic pebbles which blankets the topsoil. Lapilli filters rainwater and pulls moisture from the passing winds. It also helps prevent the evaporation of water in the soil beneath it.  The white wines produced here are tropical fruit driven with distinct saline and mineral notes.  The rosé and red wines are overtly savory with distinct minerality that produces a lingering finish. I haven’t had the opportunity to try them yet, but the next time I travel to Spain, I’m definitely taking the three-hour flight from Madrid to the Canary Islands to try a few of these amazing wines.

Whether you’re a wine nerd or a wine newbie, it’s always fun to try new things.  If you find yourself wanting to broaden your wine horizons, try some of the wine styles described above.  They will definitely give you a sense of how broad and how deep the wine spectrum truly is while exposing you to some wines you may not have otherwise been aware of.