OVER THE YEARS, I’ve had several conversations that revolved around a cocktail known as the Manhattan. Most of those conversations began with the same question: Why can’t I find someone who makes a good Manhattan? The simplest answer is that most of today’s bartenders don’t know or understand what it takes to make a good Manhattan. I know of two places where I can go to get a good one, but if I go anywhere else I don’t order them. The bartenders at those two places have a healthy respect for all things related to cocktails. Since a Manhattan is considered a classic, you’d think that bartenders would take the time to find out what a Manhattan is and learn how to make one, but that rarely occurs. The impetus behind these posts has always been for me to find the facts for myself and then pass them on to those who are interested.
So, what is a Manhattan? It’s a cocktail made with whiskey, sweet vermouth, and bitters. The most common whiskeys used are blended whiskey, bourbon, Canadian whiskey, rye, and Tennessee whiskey. The proportions of whiskey to vermouth vary from 1:1 for a very sweet Manhattan to 4:1 for a very dry one. It is most common to stir the ingredients with ice and then strain them into a martini glass. The most common garnish is a Maraschino cherry. It is not uncommon to serve a Manhattan on the rocks or to garnish it with a twist of lemon. The Manhattan was the first of many cocktails that blended vermouth with a spirit and is the precursor to the king of all cocktails — the Martini.
The origins of the Manhattan aren’t clear. One story is that it originated at the Manhattan Club in New York City in the 1870’s. The claim is that Dr. Iain Marshall invented it for a banquet hosted by Jennie Jerome to celebrate the election of Samuel J. Tilden as governor. Sadly, this story holds very little weight because during the time of this supposed banquet, Jenny Jerome was in France and was pregnant. She later gave birth to one of history’s most celebrated figures — Winston Churchill. Another story suggests that a bartender named William Black created the drink at a saloon on Bowery in the Manhattan area. Although Black did exist and evidence of the saloon also exists, there is no evidence that the cocktail was invented there.
What is clear is that in 1873, the Galveston Daily News reported that the New York Club had a peculiar cocktail made with brandy and several different kinds of bitters. It was shaken rather than stirred. It also reported that Amaranth Club had a cocktail made with seltzer and the Manhattan club had invented another. This is by no means proof that the Manhattan Club invention is the Manhattan, but there is no proof that it isn’t. What’s odd is that if this is the Manhattan, then this is almost 10 years before cocktails made with vermouth were generally accepted. It wasn’t until 1884 that the Manhattan even appeared in bartenders guides.
Let’s look at a couple of recipes. In 1884, the following recipe appeared in How to Mix Drinks–Bar Keeper’s Handbook. It’s the same recipe used at the Manhattan Club and was by far the most popular during the first twenty years of the cocktails existence.
Manhattan (circa 1884)
Two or three dashes of Peruvian bitters, 1/2 teaspoon of gum syrup, 1 1/2 ounces of whiskey, 1 1/2 ounces of vermouth.
Fill the glass three-quarters full of fine shaved ice, mix well with a spoon, strain in fancy cocktail glass and serve.
It should be noted that Peruvian bitters was an advertiser in the bar manual where this recipe appears. Other bitters such as Angostura and Peychaud’s also advertised in bar manuals. This suggests that you may choose your favorite brand. Since gum syrup is difficult to obtain these days, it can be left out without affecting the quality of the finished product. You may also notice that there is no mention of a garnish for this recipe.
Manhattan (today)
3/4 ounce of sweet vermouth, 2 1/2 ounces of blended whiskey, dash of Angostura bitters, 1 Maraschino cherry, 1 twist of orange peel.
Combine vermouth, whiskey, bitter and ice in a mixing glass. Stir gently, Place the cherry in a chilled cocktail glass and strain the whiskey over the cherry. Rub the cut edge of the orange peel over the rim of the glass and twist it over the drink to release the oils, but don’t drop it into the drink.
This modern version of the Manhattan is the most commonly accepted version today. Like all cocktails, the quality of the ingredients ensures the quality of the finished product. Italian vermouth is always a good choice although Vya is an excellent alternative. Woodford Reserve is an excellent whiskey and a great way to enhance this recipe. I am a fan of orange bitters. I’ve actually made my own, which I proudly use when I make a Manhattan at home. The introduction of this flavor to the mix turns an ordinary Manhattan into a delicious drink worth savoring. Another way to make your Manhattan stand out is to use brandy-infused cherries. Trust me, there is no better way to finish a Manhattan than by biting into one these tasty treats.
For those who enjoy something slightly sweeter, try the following recipe:
French Manhattan
2 ounces of Woodford Reserve, one ounce of Chambord, dash of bitters.
Shake ingredients with ice and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with a cherry.
The obvious twist is that Chambord is substituted for vermouth. It’s a neat alternative to the original and a refreshing way to end a long day.
So, there you have it, the Manhattan demystified. Once you’ve discovered where drinks come from and understand their place in history, it’s much easier to make them and enjoy them. I know quite a few bartenders who still don’t know how to make this time honored and delicious cocktail. They don’t take the time to find the recipes and try them out. Experimentation is the best way to perfect your craft. Tasting your experiments helps give you an appreciation for the cocktail’s place in history. It also gives you a reference when someone asks for a specific variation on the Manhattan theme. As always, when enjoying pre-Prohibition, modern or French Manhattans, please drink responsibly.