Category Archives: Bartender

Alcohol, Bartender, Gin, Liquor

Gin 101

Leave a comment

Gin


IN THE WORLD OF spirits, there are two types of people: those who love gin and those who hate gin. The people who love gin are clearly refined in nature and are no doubt generous contributors to society. Those who hate gin probably had a bad experience with some cheap, no name gin while in college and the results have scarred them for life. It’s happened to the best of us. I had a horrible experience with gin when I was a sophomore in college. I hated gin for years afterwards. There is hope though. I’ve recovered and evolved into a third category of people who believe that gin is one of the most versatile liquors ever to be invented. If you don’t believe me, this article’s intent is to convince you that this is, indeed, a fact.

Gin’s definition is quite simple. It is a distilled spirit that derives its predominant flavor from juniper berries and must be at least 37.5% ABV (75 Proof). For those of you who believe in the benefits added to the cocktail lexicon by flavored vodkas, it is often said that gin is the first flavored vodka. This is true since the first gins were made by distilling vodka with juniper.

So, what is juniper? Juniper is a member of the obnoxiously ancient cypress family. They first appeared on the terrestrial landscape during the Triassic Period, over 250 million years ago. At that time in Earth’s history, most of the land masses were grouped together into a single continent known as Pangea. This fact helps explain why a single species, Juniperus Communis, is native to Europe, Asia, and North America. Because juniper has been around for so long, several sub-species have evolved. The one most commonly used to make gin is called J. Communis Communis, a small shrub that can live for up to 200 years. They are dioecious, meaning that each shrub is either male or female. Pollen from the male can travel on the wind for miles to reach a female. Once pollinated, it takes two to three years to mature.

The earliest reference to the use of juniper with alcohol dates to the year 130 A.D. when the Turkish-born Greek physician Claudius Galenus wrote that juniper berries cleanse the liver and kidneys and they evidently thin any thick and viscous juices, and for this reason they are mixed in health medicines. Clearly, this was not gin, but it is evidence that alcohol and juniper have been a pair for at least a millennium. Jenever, the Dutch word for gin, is the earliest known form of gin. Created by Dutch physicians, it was a mix of juniper berries and a crudely distilled spirit that made medicines more palatable. The first documented reference to Jenever was in the early 1600’s.

The two most common methods for making gin are by distillation or by infusion. Distillation is used most often for commercially produced gin. Most commercial distilleries use column stills to make their gin. This is because column stills produce distillates more quickly and they can run continuously. Pot stills are also used, but usually for high-end or small-batch production. Infusion, often called the compound method, became popular during several tumultuous times in human history–most notably, Prohibition. Distillers found themselves steeping juniper and other ingredients in cheaply distilled spirits using any containers they could find. The term bathtub gin arose during this time as bathtubs provided a convenient and large vessel for any enterprising person who had the resources to procure the ingredients for homemade gin. Since alcoholic beverages of any kind were illegal during Prohibition, the chances of finding well-made gin produced from quality ingredients was probably very, very low. These days, it’s perfectly legal to buy a bottle of your favorite high proof vodka or moonshine and infuse it with juniper and other botanicals to make your own gin.

Speaking of botanicals, the list of botanicals used to enhance the flavor of gin is long. Here is a non-exhaustive list: orange peel, lemon peel, lime peel, grapefruit peel, anise, angelica root, angelica seeds, orris root, licorice root, cinnamon, almond, cubeb, dragon eye (longan), saffron, baobab, frankincense, coriander, grains of paradise, nutmeg, cassia bark, lavender, cardamom, caraway seeds, pink peppercorns, green peppercorns, vanilla, and hibiscus. There is no end to the combinations that can be used.

Gin is divided into several categories or styles. London Dry gin is probably what most people today think of when they think about gin. It has a legal definition. It must be distilled to at least 70% ABV, must not contain any artificial ingredients, cannot have any flavors or colorings added after the distillation process and can only include a minute amount of sugar at the end if required. The use of the name London these days does not imply geographical origin as it once did. It can be made anywhere if the requirements are met. Typical examples of this style are brands such as Beefeater, Tanqueray, and Bombay.

By contrast, Plymouth gin is geographically protected. It can only be produced in Plymouth, Devon. These days, there is only one producer responsible for making it—Coates & Co. (Plymouth) LTD. The flavor profile is similar to London Dry, though slightly sweeter and containing a different blend of botanicals with an emphasis on earthy roots and fruit-forward flavors.

Old Tom gin is an even sweeter version of London Dry. Historically, it is considered the parent of London Dry. It is sweetened to distinguish it from Plymouth and London Dry styles. Many Old Tom gins also contain citrus notes. Until recently, this style was not available outside of the United Kingdom. Today, many American distillers are producing this style, which is ideal for mixing many of the classic cocktails of the past, most notably the Tom Collins, whose original recipe called for Old Tom Gin. Examples of this gin available today are Ransom Old Tom, Barr Hill Tom Cat, and Hayman Old Tom.

For the adventurous among us, Jenever, the precursor to modern gin, is a blend of two or more distillates: the first is a whiskey-like triple distillate made from wheat, rye, and corn. The second is a juniper-infused spirit. The third, if used, is a malt wine re-distilled together with various botanicals. If whiskey and gin were to marry, this would be their lovechild. The only example I’ve seen is Genevieve. It is delicious!!

Leave it to the craft distillers in the United States to force the creation of this last category: New American Gin. It is used to describe all the new gins that have begun to push the boundaries of what was once considered gin. It is the accepted title for gins that do not fall under any of the other traditional labels. There are many outstanding examples including: Hendrick’s, Bar Hill, The Botanist, Green Hat, and Brian’s Belle Isle Gin.

What can you do with gin? A lot, in fact. During the Golden Age of Cocktails, quite a few of the so-called classics were made with gin. These classics still grace the pages of many cocktail bar menus around the world. Cocktails like The Martini, The Negroni, Tom Collins, Aviation Cocktail, Gimlet, Gibson, Hanky Panky, Singapore Sling, Vesper, Pegu Club, The Bijou, Silver Bronx, London Fog, Corpse Reviver #2, The Martinez, and The Last Word have become legendary because of their amazing balance, flavor and strength–qualities attributed to gin. The genius of The Last Word can be seen in its many, many derivatives: The Final Word, Fernetaboutit, Paper Plane, Naked and Famous, and Pete’s Word. Each of these cocktails is magical and owes a debt to a gin cocktail from a time when Vaudeville was still king.

My top five gins come from everywhere. I like them because of their flexibility and flavor. When I create cocktails that use gin, these are my top choices:

The Botanist – It’s made using 22 botanicals indigenous to the Island of Islay (Scotland). It sports some really cool, yet complex tropical notes.

Ransom Old Tom—It’s a historically accurate revival of the gin that was in fashion during the mid-1850’s, the Golden Age of American cocktails. It has aromatic juniper and forest notes. It’s very rich and silky with malt flavors punctuated by citrus, coriander, and teak. It’s made in Oregon, aged for 6-12 months in French oak barrels and all the botanicals are certified organic.

Death’s Door—Distilled from winter wheat that is native to Washington Island, Wisconsin. It’s made using only three botanicals: juniper, fennel, and coriander. The best Hanky Panky can be made using this bold distillate.

Citadelle Reserve—One of the first barrel-aged gins on the market. It’s distilled using yuzu, genepy, and cornflower. Citadelle uses a Solera aging system, a very unusual choice for gin. It’s aged for six months and is a product of France.

Green Hat—Produced using only grains, this small batch gin is pot-distilled in Washington, D. C.

One last note: Sloe Gin is not gin. It is a gin-based liqueur made using berries from the Blackthorn bush (sloe berries). It is a very sweet, thick liquid used as a mixer in cocktails and is generally low in alcohol.

So, that’s gin in a nutshell. I hope this little primer clears up any misconceptions you may have had about this amazing alcoholic concoction. I love gin and am happy to make gin cocktails for those who want to take the leap to the Dark Side. Ask your local bartender about his/her favorite classic gin cocktail to make. If they are worth their mettle, they’ll have several cocktails on the ready. Order one and prepare to be amazed.

Bartender

What is a Bartender?

Leave a comment

bartender_b_1

I HAVE TRIED to answer this question in a concise way for years, but it’s an impossible task.  The answer is a lot more complicated than you’d imagine.  Especially for me since it’s not just my profession, but also my passion and my lifestyle.

Every single day, I aspire to be better at everything than I was the day before.  That includes being a bartender.  To do that, I study the history of bartending.  I know that Jerry Thomas was the first famous bartender.  He blazed a trail for all bartenders by popularizing cocktails across the Unites States in the mid-19th century.  In 1862, he published the first bartender’s guide, called How to Mix Drinks. I have a reprint of that book in my collection.  I also have a copy of Tom Bullock’s book, The Ideal Bartender.  It was written in 1917 and is the first bartending guide written by an African-American bartender.  My goal is to be second.

This type of knowledge about my profession is no different than when I was a software engineer.  I could tell you that Bjarne Stroustrup was the creator of the C++ programming language and that he created it so his friends could have a platform for creating elegant computer programs in an object-oriented environment, and that Dennis M. Ritchie and Brian W. Kernighan invented the C programming language while working for Bell Labs.  I suspect that accountants know that the ancient Etruscans and Persians are thought to have invented counting.

I didn’t become a bartender by following a well-marked path.  As I mentioned, I was once a software engineer.  I’m trained to solve problems using computer programming languages.  My college curriculum included chemistry, physics, calculus and all other manner of torture.  It helped me understand the importance of experimentation and precise measurement.  I always thought that bartending would be fun, but I followed my childhood dream of being a scientist.  By following my dream, I unknowingly prepared myself for what lay ahead.

From the moment I begin a shift until the moment it ends, the passion I have for my job shows.  Every drink I make has to look and taste good.  Every recommendation I make has to be perfect.  When someone asks me what ideas I’m working on, I get excited because I get a chance to show off what I’ve spent countless hours trying to perfect.

Being a bartender doesn’t mean just knowing how to make drinks.  It means knowing EVERYTHING about adult beverages: beer, wine, and spirits.  You have to know the difference between ales and lagers.  You have to know that all Cognac is brandy, but not all brandy is Cognac.  You have to know that Champagne is sparkling wine, but not all sparkling wine is Champagne.  You need to know the proper technique for muddling mint and sugar to make Mojitos and Mint Juleps. You need to know what a jigger is used for and how to use a vegetable peeler to make garnishes for cocktails.  You must also be willing to work long hours performing physically exhausting tasks while entertaining guests at your bar.  Most important, you need to know when to impart your knowledge and wisdom to others and when to shut the hell up and listen.  I doubt that five training shifts at your local chain restaurant will teach you any of these things.  It took me years of listening, reading and observing to get to where I am today and as far as I’m concerned, I still have a long way to go.

A friend noted that bartenders are also psychiatrists who listen to people’s problems and dispense drugs accordingly.  She also states that we’re confessors, entertainers, raconteurs, psychologists, wingmen, and all manner of other things rolled into one larger than life being.  I tend to agree, but I also see that as part of the bartender cliché so I usually don’t mention it.  I like the mystery that surrounds us.  I like knowing the details of the secret elixirs that we use such as bitters, Chartreuse, Absinthe, Luxardo and Fernet Branca.  I enjoy making concoctions that require a pastry chef’s torch to char citrus peels.  I enjoy creating drinks on the fly for the novice drinker who wants to ease into the shallow end of the cocktail pool.

As I said, every single day I want to be better.  That means that no matter where I am and no matter what I’m doing, I am conscious of what’s going on around me.  When I’m in the grocery store, I ALWAYS go to the produce section to see what’s in season as fresh ingredients are always best when making cocktails.  Today, I found blood oranges.  Tonight, I’ll make something cool with them at work.  When I go to other bars and restaurants, I talk to the bartenders.  I like exchanging ideas and talking shop.  It’s the best way to get to know those who do what you do.  It’s also a way to bounce ideas off of like-minded people.  When I’m in a museum, I look at art not just because I like art, but the colors, designs, shapes and perspectives of artists give me ideas about how I want my cocktails to look. I learned a long time ago that food and drink should not just taste good, but look good as well.  Picasso and Rodin may not seem likely to inspire a cocktail, but they have.  So have the ancient Egyptians, Romans, Chinese and Mayans.  Nothing is out of the realm of possibility when you open your mind.

The first bartenders I ever knew personally were two fine upstanding citizens named Kenny Williams and Herb George.  What I remember most about them when we met was that they worked hard, but they always seemed to be having fun while they worked.  I admired that about them and always hoped that one day I’d find a job that I enjoyed as much as they did all those years ago.  Who would have thought that all these years later the job that they enjoyed so much would be the profession that seemingly chose me?  And who would have thought that answering a simple question would be so interesting?  Certainly not me.

Bartender, Cocktail, Legends

Jerry Thomas

Leave a comment

jerrythomas

THE DICTIONARY DEFINES a bartender as a person who mixes and serves alcoholic drinks at a bar.  The word was first used in America sometime during the 1830’s.  When we think of bartenders, we envision characters played by Nicholas Colasanto,Ted Lange, Woody Harrelson, and Bryan Brown.  Some of us even have a favorite real life bartender whose image comes to mind when you hear the word bartender, but who is the bartender who influenced these fictional and non-fictional bartenders?  His name is Jeremiah P. Thomas.

Jeremiah P. Thomas was born on December 15, 1830 in Sackets Harbor, New York and he is considered by most to be the Father of American Mixology.  He learned his craft in New Haven, Connecticut as a 16 year-old apprentice in 1846.  He then sailed to California as a merchant marine during the Gold Rush.  While in California, he developed his skills as a bartender and bar manager before moving to New York City in 1851.  During this time, he opened the first of four saloons that he’d run in New York during his life.  He also worked as head bartender at hotels and saloons in New Orleans, St. Louis, Chicago, Charleston, and San Francisco.  He even traveled to Europe.

Jerry, or The Professor, as he was known, was well known for his showmanship.  He owned a set of solid-silver bar tools which he used to develop elaborate and flashy techniques for mixing cocktails.  Sometimes, he was known to juggle bottles, cups, glasses, and mixing containers.  He wore flashy jewelry and had his cups and bar tools embellished with precious stones and metals.  While working at the Occidental Hotel in San Francisco, Jerry earned $100 per week.  At the time, this was more than what was earned by the Vice President of the United States.

Recently, I mentioned Jerry’s book, The Bar-Tender’s Guide, in a post.  This is the first bartending book ever published in the United States.  It was a collection of recipes that had been, until the time of publication, passed on orally.  The book also included original recipes and it discussed the principles for fabricating cocktails in all categories.

As I mentioned earlier, Jerry was known for his flare.  His signature drink, the Blue Blazer, was developed while working at the El Dorado saloon in San Francisco.  It is made by setting whisky ablaze and passing it back and forth between two mixing glasses, creating an arc of flame.  I’d love to do this at a bar, but sadly, it’s illegal to set drinks ablaze in bars in Virginia.  Among Jerry’s other creations was a drink called the Martinez, which first appeared in the 1887 edition of his famous book.  Many mistakenly refer to this drink as the precursor to what we know as the modern martini.  The 1887 edition lists the ingredients as Old Tom gin, sweet vermouth, a dash of maraschino, bitters, a slice of lemon and two dashes of gum syrup.  Clearly, this is closer to a manhattan than a martini, since a martini has gin and dry vermouth garnished with an olive.

What is most remarkable about Mr. Thomas is that his life spanned the three great ages of cocktails: the archaic, the baroque, and the classic.  He was born in 1830 when Americans were enjoying punches, toddies and slings.  During his prime as a bartender, he was in the middle of the period when bartenders used an incomprehensible array of ingredients and styles to make drinks.  At the time of his death he was witness to the introduction of modern cocktails such as the martini and the manhattan.

In addition to being the father of bartending, Jerry was a husband, a father, a traveler, a gambler, a prize-fight fan, and an art collector.  He was one of the first to display the work of Thomas Nast in his saloon.  For the Thomas Nast impaired, Nast was a caricaturist and editorial cartoonist who is considered to be the Father of the American Cartoon.  Sadly, his famous drawing of Jerry Thomas in nine tippling postures colossally has been lost.

In 1885, Jerry Thomas died from what was described at the time as apoplexy.  He was 55 years old.  By then, he was pretty well known around the country.  This was evidenced by the striking number of obituaries that appeared in newspapers from New York to San Francisco.  The New York Times noted that Thomas was at one time better known to club men and men about town than any other bartender in this city, and he was popular among all classes.  That says it all.

So, there you have it — Jeremiah P. Thomas, shaken and stirred.  Keep in mind that the person you just read about died nearly 125 years ago, yet his influence can still be seen today.  Any bartender who flips bottles, sets drinks ablaze, or makes fancy drinks is emulating the style of a man who was born when Andrew Jackson was president.  He was admired and respected by everyone and he changed the way we chronicle, categorize, and create drinks.  So, the next time you’re in a bar and you hear a bartender talking about his latest creation, ask him if he’s heard of Jerry Thomas.  He most likely hasn’t, but now you have the ability to enlighten him.  As always, when drinking concoctions from the 1887 edition of The Bar-Tender’s Guide or any other bar manual, please drink responsibly!!!