LOCATED WITHIN THE AUTONOMOUS Community of Cataluña is DO Cava. In Spain, DO or designation of origin is the name of a geographic region or specific area that is recognized for producing wine (or other products) that reflect the characteristics of that particular place. Cava was awarded its DO designation in 1986 and its only wine style is Espumoso (sparkling). 

The success of sparkling wine in Cava is due to the Raventós family from Penedès.  After visiting Champagne in 1872, Joseph Raventós i Fatjó created the first sparkling wine in Spain using the traditional method.  He called it Xampany.  It was remarkably successful, and production of this amazing new beverage increased with its popularity.  In 1888, Joseph’s son, Manuel Raventós Domènech, successfully produced a sparkling wine from Xarel.lo, Macabeo, and Paralleda, three grape varietals indigenous to the region. To this day, these grapes remain the dominant grapes used in the production of Cava. Cava is fully sparkling usually with lower acidity while being heavier on the palate than Champagne. It also tends to have less autolytic character (the smell of yeast) with more fennel and herbal notes on the nose.

As I mentioned earlier, Raventós called his creation Xampany.  That name was frowned upon by the French.  However, the name Cava didn’t appear until the mid-1950’s. Cava is a reference to the caves or cellars where the wine was made and stored. It wasn’t until 1972, with the creation of the Consejo Regulador de los Vinos Espumosos (Regulatory Council of Sparkling Wine) that the term Cava was officially recognized as the name of sparkling wine from Catalan made using the traditional method (the process used to make Champagne).

Spain is known for its innovations with respect to the wine industry.  In the 1970’s, Cataluña invented a semi-automated girasol, the precursor to the fully automated gyropallete.  This device helped accelerate the riddling process, an important, very tedious and time consuming, requirement in the production of traditional method sparkling wines.

Because the secondary fermentation process takes place within the individual bottles, sediment is formed as a byproduct.  Since the sediment is left inside the bottle for a long period of time, it will stick to the sides, leaving it visually unappealing.  Shaking the bottle will cause the sediment to cloud the wine.  Winemakers, instead, leave the bottles in racks with their necks tilted downward.  This allows gravity to pull the sediment downward toward the cork.  Every couple of weeks, the bottles are twisted (riddled) in both directions and tilted at more and more severe angles until all of the sediment is collected in the necks of the bottles.  At this stage, the sediment can be removed. All of this is important because sediment can alter the taste of sparkling wine as well as its appearance. In Champagne, this process is still largely done by hand.  This is very time consuming and amazingly expensive.   

Although Cataluña is still the original and spiritual home of Cava, today, the DO incorporates more than 150 municipalities spread out over seven autonomous regions within the borders of Spain.  These areas include País Vasco, Cataluña, La Rioja, Comunidad Valencia, Navarro, Aragón, and Extramadura. 95% of all Cava production still takes place in Penedes, located in Cataluña. Cava rosato (rosé) is also legally allowed to be produced. It requires a minimum of 25% red wine grapes, four of which are authorized for use within the DO. 

Sweetness levels for Cava are determined by the amount of dosage, a form of sweetener, added to the wine after disgorgement.  Disgorgement is the final step in the process of making sparkling wines using the traditional method. This step involves removing deposits of yeast collected in the neck of the bottle.  Sweetness levels, for Cava, from least sweet to sweetest are Brut Nature, Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Seco, Seco, Semi-Seco, Dulce.

To be labeled Cava, wines must be produced using the traditional method and aged for a minimum of 9 months on its lees. Lees is the name given to the yeast that’s added to the bottle during the secondary fermentation process. There are also special label designations for premium Cavas. The premium categories are Reserva, Gran Reserva, and Cava de Paraje Calificado.  Cava de Paraje Calificado (Qualified Single Vineyard Cava) is intended to increase the visibility of the highest quality cava produced in the region. This new classification was established in 2015 as a way to highlight the uniqueness of a specific terroir within a region. The requirements for this new classification are strict.  The vines must be at least 10 years old, the grapes must come from a single vineyard, must be harvested manually, must have lower than normal yields, must be vinified on the estate, must be labeled with a vintage, must be aged for a minimum of 36 months on the lees, sweetness level can only be Brut Nature, Extra Brut, or Brut, must be approved by an unbiased international taste panel, and production must be traceable from vineyard to shelf. For those unfamiliar with the term vinified, it is the name given to the process of converting grape juice into wine using fermentation.

I drink a lot of Cava and I do have favorites.  The first is La Barraca Brut Cava produced by Emendis in Penedes, Spain.  It’s made from 100% Xarel.lo. The vines are 40-years old and grow in soil that is largely clay-based. The estate dates back over 800 years and its name was derived from the family name of the eight female farmers who settled there.  I like this wine because it has fine bubbles and a bright yellow straw color.  The aromatics are intense with a profound aroma of anise complemented by nutmeg and thyme. At its core, there are notes of citrus that give a complex smokiness that hint at coconut and caramel. The palate reveals fruit that leads to a long, persistent finish. 

Another favorite is a Brut Rosé, also produced by Emendis.  It’s made from 100% Pinot Noir. The maceration process lasts for 8 hours, giving the wine its distinctive hue.  The natural elegance and high acidity associated with pinot noir is perfect for the production of rosé. It gives the wine a cherry color that is accented by pink salmon tones. The wine has persistent bubbles with rich aromas of wild raspberries and currants. There are subtle notes of toast and spices that unfold into a generous fruity finish.

I like Cava because it’s an inexpensive alternative to Champagne. And because of the nature of the culture that produces it, I enjoy the festive, fun overtones that I associate with my visit to Spain.  There are lots of interesting examples of Cava on the market and with the strict rules designed to guarantee quality, you’re sure to find something that you like.