Drinking in My Dreams

ONE OF THE THINGS that makes us uniquely human is our ability to use our minds to imagine scenarios that we would not otherwise experience.  Our brains are extraordinarily complex, and our dreams can often times seem real. It gives us the ability to answer one of the most often asked questions posed by friends.  If you could have dinner with someone famous, who would it be? We all ponder it whether asked or not.  As a jazz fan, I think dinner with some of the luminaries of the past would be kind of boring.  However, drinking a glass of Scotch with some of them would probably be more in line with the vibe that I get when listening to my favorite artists recordings.

Ardbeg Uigeadail is one of my favorite Scotches.  It’s rich and weighty with intoxicating and smoky aromatics. The initial aroma is a mix of walnut oil and violets with fresh ocean spice, pine needles and cedar. It’s reminiscent of a smoldering coal fire that brings warmth on a cold winters’ night. It’s full-flavored with a rich, deep, tongue-coating texture that is an intricate balance of sweet, spicy, and deep smoke.

When I think of jazz and smoke, I immediately recall a photograph of Dexter Gordon, one of the legends of the tenor saxophone. In the photograph, he’s wearing one of his trademark hats and smoking a cigarette.  He started his career while still a teenager, touring with the great Lionel Hampton. He eventually moved to New York City to pursue his dream of being a professional jazz musician.  He spent the majority of his career in Europe in what can only be described as exile, living in Denmark, and traveling to France and Germany to perform and record music.  Among his many accomplishments, he was nominated for an Academy Award for his performance in the movie ‘Round Midnight. I imagine it would be fun to speak with Dexter Gordon at a café in Paris.  We’d probably just talk about life.  His experiences as a musician during the 1950s and 1960s could not have been ideal, but to persevere as he did would no doubt lead to some interesting conversations about the things he learned along the way, both the good and the bad.

If you’re a jazz fan like me, the only name that comes to mind when you think of smooth and elegant is Edward Kennedy “Duke” Ellington.  His stage presence made him seem almost regal. Duke Ellington was a famous and successful musician and band leader when it wasn’t in the best interest of an American of African descent to be either.  He rose above the prejudice of his time and became not only an ambassador for the music, but an ambassador for his race.  Every interview I’ve ever read or television program where I saw him interviewed, he was always gracious, honest, and thoughtful.  A person who had every right to be bitter about the way he and others like him were treated and I don’t ever recall him lashing out.  I’d love to hear his views on the state of today’s music.  I doubt that he’d be critical of it, but it would be great to hear the opinion of someone who was there when Jazz was in its infancy to talk about its evolution and where it’s headed in the twenty-first century.  As a non-musician, I would find it fascinating to hear his views. I would love to enjoy a glass of Yamazaki 18 with him while discussing what influenced him when he wrote his famous suites.

Yamazaki whisky is not Scotch, but it’s made with the tradition of the whiskies of Scotland at its core.  Spiritual and deep, the soul place of Japanese whiskey is one of the ways that it’s been described.  Yamazaki 18-year-old whisky is elegant with a deep amber color.  It has aromas of apricot, raisin, truffles, marmalade, Oloroso Sherry, and Japanese oak. The palate is rich and bittersweet with heather roots, cigar leaves, honey, toffee, apples, plum wine, and black pepper.  The finish is long, spicy, fruity, and smooth. It’s such an elegant expression of the Scotch tradition that it was voted best whisky in the world in 2014, besting ALL whiskeys, whiskys, and bourbons around the globe.

Another outstanding whisky is The Balvenie Caribbean Cask 14-year-old Scotch–a traditional single malt from Speyside, a subdivision of the Highlands.  In order to be considered Speyside Scotch, the whisky must be made near the river Spey. Balvenie 14 is initially aged in a traditional oak cask before it is finished in a cask which previously held Caribbean rum. This imparts an extra sweetness and warmth to the whisky. What makes this whisky even more fascinating is that the malt master at Balvenie created his own blend of West Indian rums, filled it into the rum casks, and then eventually replaced his rum with Balvenie 14 whisky. This particular Balvenie has rich aromas that include tropical fruits and toffee.  The palate has a creamy vanilla feel with notes of apples and mangoes with a hint of orange. Its finish lingers with a more focused vanilla character. 

The level of complexity with the added layers of ingenuity used to create this whisky reminds me of one person—John Coltrane. John Coltrane passed away in 1967 and since that time, musicians and scholars are still trying to understand the music that he created.  There isn’t a saxophone player alive who isn’t influenced by his playing.  He studied eastern religions and incorporated those ideas into his music.  Not only that, but he was also a big fan of Albert Einstein.  He studied Einstein’s theories and had a deep understanding of the underlying physics and mathematics.  In the book The Jazz of Physics by Stephon Alexander, the author talks about how Einstein inspired Coltrane to put physics and geometry at the core of his music.  Music that has secrets yet to be unraveled by today’s musicians.  John Coltrane was incredibly soft spoken and very reserved.  His thoughts always seemed to come across as deep and introspective in his interviews.  His interests in mathematics, physics, and eastern cultures would lead to some interesting conversations.  It would be really interesting to listen to him expound upon ideas that none of my friends would find interesting.  Topics such as the belief that the catalyst for the Big Bang was literally a sound or a tone. A tone whose remnants still exist somewhere in our vast Universe. You’d need a complex Scotch to get into the details beneath the surface of this complexed topic. Possibly more than one bottle. It would be a sacrifice worth making.

As I said at the beginning, the brain is an incredible tool.  Even when our technology advances to the point where we can virtually enjoy our dreams, it will still allow us to dream big.  I hope humanity never loses that ability.

DO Cava

LOCATED WITHIN THE AUTONOMOUS Community of Cataluña is DO Cava. In Spain, DO or designation of origin is the name of a geographic region or specific area that is recognized for producing wine (or other products) that reflect the characteristics of that particular place. Cava was awarded its DO designation in 1986 and its only wine style is Espumoso (sparkling). 

The success of sparkling wine in Cava is due to the Raventós family from Penedès.  After visiting Champagne in 1872, Joseph Raventós i Fatjó created the first sparkling wine in Spain using the traditional method.  He called it Xampany.  It was remarkably successful, and production of this amazing new beverage increased with its popularity.  In 1888, Joseph’s son, Manuel Raventós Domènech, successfully produced a sparkling wine from Xarel.lo, Macabeo, and Paralleda, three grape varietals indigenous to the region. To this day, these grapes remain the dominant grapes used in the production of Cava. Cava is fully sparkling usually with lower acidity while being heavier on the palate than Champagne. It also tends to have less autolytic character (the smell of yeast) with more fennel and herbal notes on the nose.

As I mentioned earlier, Raventós called his creation Xampany.  That name was frowned upon by the French.  However, the name Cava didn’t appear until the mid-1950’s. Cava is a reference to the caves or cellars where the wine was made and stored. It wasn’t until 1972, with the creation of the Consejo Regulador de los Vinos Espumosos (Regulatory Council of Sparkling Wine) that the term Cava was officially recognized as the name of sparkling wine from Catalan made using the traditional method (the process used to make Champagne).

Spain is known for its innovations with respect to the wine industry.  In the 1970’s, Cataluña invented a semi-automated girasol, the precursor to the fully automated gyropallete.  This device helped accelerate the riddling process, an important, very tedious and time consuming, requirement in the production of traditional method sparkling wines.

Because the secondary fermentation process takes place within the individual bottles, sediment is formed as a byproduct.  Since the sediment is left inside the bottle for a long period of time, it will stick to the sides, leaving it visually unappealing.  Shaking the bottle will cause the sediment to cloud the wine.  Winemakers, instead, leave the bottles in racks with their necks tilted downward.  This allows gravity to pull the sediment downward toward the cork.  Every couple of weeks, the bottles are twisted (riddled) in both directions and tilted at more and more severe angles until all of the sediment is collected in the necks of the bottles.  At this stage, the sediment can be removed. All of this is important because sediment can alter the taste of sparkling wine as well as its appearance. In Champagne, this process is still largely done by hand.  This is very time consuming and amazingly expensive.   

Although Cataluña is still the original and spiritual home of Cava, today, the DO incorporates more than 150 municipalities spread out over seven autonomous regions within the borders of Spain.  These areas include País Vasco, Cataluña, La Rioja, Comunidad Valencia, Navarro, Aragón, and Extramadura. 95% of all Cava production still takes place in Penedes, located in Cataluña. Cava rosato (rosé) is also legally allowed to be produced. It requires a minimum of 25% red wine grapes, four of which are authorized for use within the DO. 

Sweetness levels for Cava are determined by the amount of dosage, a form of sweetener, added to the wine after disgorgement.  Disgorgement is the final step in the process of making sparkling wines using the traditional method. This step involves removing deposits of yeast collected in the neck of the bottle.  Sweetness levels, for Cava, from least sweet to sweetest are Brut Nature, Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Seco, Seco, Semi-Seco, Dulce.

To be labeled Cava, wines must be produced using the traditional method and aged for a minimum of 9 months on its lees. Lees is the name given to the yeast that’s added to the bottle during the secondary fermentation process. There are also special label designations for premium Cavas. The premium categories are Reserva, Gran Reserva, and Cava de Paraje Calificado.  Cava de Paraje Calificado (Qualified Single Vineyard Cava) is intended to increase the visibility of the highest quality cava produced in the region. This new classification was established in 2015 as a way to highlight the uniqueness of a specific terroir within a region. The requirements for this new classification are strict.  The vines must be at least 10 years old, the grapes must come from a single vineyard, must be harvested manually, must have lower than normal yields, must be vinified on the estate, must be labeled with a vintage, must be aged for a minimum of 36 months on the lees, sweetness level can only be Brut Nature, Extra Brut, or Brut, must be approved by an unbiased international taste panel, and production must be traceable from vineyard to shelf. For those unfamiliar with the term vinified, it is the name given to the process of converting grape juice into wine using fermentation.

I drink a lot of Cava and I do have favorites.  The first is La Barraca Brut Cava produced by Emendis in Penedes, Spain.  It’s made from 100% Xarel.lo. The vines are 40-years old and grow in soil that is largely clay-based. The estate dates back over 800 years and its name was derived from the family name of the eight female farmers who settled there.  I like this wine because it has fine bubbles and a bright yellow straw color.  The aromatics are intense with a profound aroma of anise complemented by nutmeg and thyme. At its core, there are notes of citrus that give a complex smokiness that hint at coconut and caramel. The palate reveals fruit that leads to a long, persistent finish. 

Another favorite is a Brut Rosé, also produced by Emendis.  It’s made from 100% Pinot Noir. The maceration process lasts for 8 hours, giving the wine its distinctive hue.  The natural elegance and high acidity associated with pinot noir is perfect for the production of rosé. It gives the wine a cherry color that is accented by pink salmon tones. The wine has persistent bubbles with rich aromas of wild raspberries and currants. There are subtle notes of toast and spices that unfold into a generous fruity finish.

I like Cava because it’s an inexpensive alternative to Champagne. And because of the nature of the culture that produces it, I enjoy the festive, fun overtones that I associate with my visit to Spain.  There are lots of interesting examples of Cava on the market and with the strict rules designed to guarantee quality, you’re sure to find something that you like. 

Playing in the Dirt: Spain

I HAVE A LOT of nerdy wine friends. When we drink wine together, we don’t just drink it– we look at it, we smell it, we taste it, and we talk about it.  We’ve acquired quite the wine vocabulary over the years.  It’s the kind of jargon that probably sounds like a foreign language to anyone who hasn’t been initiated into our wine fraternity.  One of our favorite words is terroir.  It’s a French word that has no English translation. My favorite definition for terroir was written by Hugh Johnson, a renowned British wine writer.  For him, terroir is …much more than what goes on beneath the surface. Properly understood, it means the whole ecology of a vineyard: every aspect of its surroundings from bedrock to late frosts and autumn mists, not excluding the way a vineyard is tended, nor even the soul of the vigneron. This gives it the proper amount of mystery and the sense of the different levels and nuances involved in terroir. 

One of the things that gets overlooked when talking about terroir is soil.  This makes sense because to most people grape vines are plants and plants grow in dirt. Similar to that medium where you plant your garden every Spring.  Grape vines are different, however.  They can thrive in environments where typical plants would not survive.  Spain has a few unique soil types that not only allow grape vines to thrive, but, in some cases, influence the way wine made from those grapes will taste.

In the north eastern corner of Spain lies Cataluña. Within its borders is one of the smallest, yet most prestigious wine-producing regions in the world–DOQ Priorat.  It’s one of only two DOQ designated wine producing areas in Spain.  For those unfamiliar with European Union regulations with respect to wine, here’s a brief primer.  In the EU, a designation of origin (DO) denotes the name of a specific place where the wines exhibit the qualities and characteristics of the particular geographic environment from which they originate. The DOCa (DOQ in Cataluña) designation is awarded to DOs that have attained the highest levels of quality for an extended period of time. In Spain, this is the highest level that can be awarded. 

Priorat is completely surrounded by Serra de Montsant mountain range, which protects the vineyards from cold weather and harsh winds.  DOQ Priorat is known for red wines that are highly concentrated, mineral driven, and complex with notes of ripe berries and cured meat.  The palate is usually rich and intense, yet balanced and refreshing. The unique soil in this region is called Llicorella.  It’s a shallow, copper-colored, decomposed shale/slate with low organic content.  It’s extremely fragile, layered rock with fine texture.  Root systems of the vines have to constantly search for fractures in this type of soil to find nutrients and water.  Wine produced from grapes grown in Llicorella are DOQ Priorat’s signature. Whenever I see a wine from DOQ Priorat on a wine list, I order it.  I am such a fan of this style of wine and I have never been disappointed.

South and west of Cataluña is Andalucia.  This area is known for being the location where Tapas was invented.  It’s also known for Sherry. Sherry is a fortified wine made from grapes.  There are several different styles of Sherry that have a varying range of colors and flavors.  Part of the success of Sherry is due to the unique soil in which the grape vines grow.  It’s called Albariza. It has a characteristically white hue and is extremely rich in calcium carbonate.  It has a chalk content that ranges from 30-80% with limestone, clay, and sand to balance the mixture. What makes Albariza vital to the production of Sherry is its ability to reflect sunlight, retain humidity, and store water produced by winter rain by forming a hard crust on the surface during the hot summer months.  This allows the vines to thrive in an environment not necessarily suited for grape production. I love Sherry.  It’s very versatile.  One of my favorite cocktails is Manzanilla Sherry and tonic over ice.  It’s so delicious!

Six hundred miles south of Andalucia are the Canary Islands.  Most people don’t think of these remote islands as a place to find amazing wines, but the Canary Islands actually produce some of the world’s most highly sought-after wines.  What makes them so highly desirable is the soil found there.  It’s called Lapilli and it consists of a layer of small, porous, volcanic pebbles which blankets the topsoil. Lapilli filters rainwater and pulls moisture from the passing winds. It also helps prevent the evaporation of water in the soil beneath it.  The white wines produced here are tropical fruit driven with distinct saline and mineral notes.  The rosé and red wines are overtly savory with distinct minerality that produces a lingering finish. I haven’t had the opportunity to try them yet, but the next time I travel to Spain, I’m definitely taking the three-hour flight from Madrid to the Canary Islands to try a few of these amazing wines.

Whether you’re a wine nerd or a wine newbie, it’s always fun to try new things.  If you find yourself wanting to broaden your wine horizons, try some of the wine styles described above.  They will definitely give you a sense of how broad and how deep the wine spectrum truly is while exposing you to some wines you may not have otherwise been aware of.  

St. Valentine’s Day (How to Flip it On Its Head)

What is Valentine’s Day?  Traditionally, Saint Valentine’s Day or the Feast of Saint Valentine, is celebrated each year on February 14.  Originally, it was a minor Western Christian feast day to honor at least one, if not two, early Christian martyrs named Saint Valentine. It has since evolved, through folk traditions, into a significant cultural and religious celebration of romance and love throughout the world.

In these modern times, St. Valentine’s Day has turned into a commercial tidal wave in which restaurants, retail outlets, florists, greeting card manufacturers, and chocolatiers benefit from a marketing campaign designed to make you believe that your love for your significant other can only be measured by spending as much money as you possibly can in order to profess your undying feelings for them.  It’s pretty ingenious. This time of year, many find themselves with a new-found windfall as their Federal tax returns have just arrived.  Marketing firms know this and are ruthless in their attempts to relieve you of as much of that newly acquired wealth as possible. 

But, what if you’re single? Maybe you recently broke up with your significant other.  Maybe you’re newly divorced or maybe you enjoy being single because you’ve discovered that this is the lifestyle for you.  The marketing campaigns designed for couples tend to alienate those who are not in a relationship.  The odds of you finding that special someone, if you’re looking, are exceedingly small. There is an undocumented dating moratorium that goes into effect sometime after Halloween.  This is the time of year when finding a new someone traditionally ceases.  Apparently, the pressure of gift giving associated with a newly acquired significant other is too extreme.  Not to mention, holiday events that necessitate meeting the families of your new person are frequently awkward at best.  The moratorium ends sometime after the new year, leaving you with just a few weeks to find someone new before Valentine’s Day.  The sense of awkwardness doesn’t subside and the pressure to find the perfect person is quite daunting.  So, what do you do?

I’ve discovered over the years that happiness comes from within.  Loving yourself is paramount to the happiness that you desire.  On Valentine’s Day, do the things that couples do by yourself.  You’ll find that if you’re comfortable in your own skin, you can have just as much fun as those commercials suggest—there will just be one less person to please.

I’ve sent myself roses at work on Valentine’s Day. I like flowers, so why not?  I love the expressions on co-worker’s faces when the roses arrive.  They don’t have to know that I sent them to myself.  The stories that they make up in their minds are probably better than the stories I could come up with.  Take yourself out to dinner.  Eating alone isn’t a bad thing.  What’s better than enjoying an amazing meal with the person you love?  Good food is good food.  And it’s even better when you’re with the person who you love the most—yourself. My favorite Valentine’s Day dinner took place in the late 1990’s.  I was on a business trip in a city that was thousands of miles from home.  I decided to take myself out for dinner because I hate room service.  Because it was Valentine’s Day, the only seats available were at the bar.  I took a seat and ordered my meal: Tuna Tartare as an appetizer and the Surf and Turf special for dinner.  I ordered a glass of Champagne to pair with the first course and a bottle of Rioja to pair with my main course.  I was enjoying my appetizer when a couple sat next to me while they waited for a table to clear.  While they sat near me talking about their day, my entrée and the bottle of wine arrived.  The woman looked at my meal and blurted out, “…he got the special!” This immediately led to an argument between the two and the woman stormed out before they even got seated.  I continued to have a great time, but they clearly did not.  The expectations of the day always seem to overshadow the reality of the moment. 

I don’t always go out for dinner on Valentine’s Day, however.  I usually end up working, so over the years I began the custom of getting a really nice bottle of sparkling wine to drink whenever that horrible shift ended.  Since I’m technically a Sommelier now and this is a wine related post, below is a list of my five favorite sparkling wines to enjoy on Valentine’s Day.

  • 2007 Billecart-Salmon “Cuvée Elisabeth” Brut Rosé Champagne

On the nose, there is a refreshing expression of citrus peel and red berry jelly with a rich and complex aromatic note of roses, cherries, and white peaches. There are soft hints of wild strawberries and spices can also be detected. The palate displays delicate flavors of mandarin, blood orange, and apple tart.

  • NV A.R. LENOBLE BRUT NATURE

This wine is bone-dry with layers of complexity.  Stone fruits, fresh baked pie crust, and toasted hazelnuts appear on the nose with a mineral driven, mouthwatering palate. The salinity of the wine lends itself equally as well to oysters and pomme frite with aioli.

  • NV Taittinger “La Française” Brut Champagne

This wine has a subtle, pale gold color with fine, persistent bubbles. It is delicate, with aromas of peach, white flowers, vanilla pod, and brioche on the nose and flavors of fresh fruit and honey on the palate.

  • NV CRÉMANT DU JURA ROSÉ, DOMAINE ROLET

A nice steady pink color, brilliant copper reflections, fine bubbles with good persistence. Delicate notes of morello cherry that is slightly vinous and fresh. The palate is intense with a touch of energy that is lively and pleasant.

  • 2016 Lambrusco di Sorbara Spumante DOC Metodo Classico ‘Brut Rosso’

The nose is very inviting with fragrances of raspberries and juicy wild strawberries mixed with subtle citrus notes.  This wine has incredible dark fruit flavors.  It has a nice dry finish, good persistence, excellent harmony and is balanced with acid and salty flavors. The finish is clean and leaves you wanting more.

I’m notorious for saying that sparkling wines pair well with life.  The five wines listed above are some of my favorites now that I’m living my best life.  If you’re single like me, don’t fall victim to all the Valentine’s Day hype.  Treat yourself.  You won’t regret it.