IN THE WORLD OF spirits, there are two types of people: those who love gin and those who hate gin. The people who love gin are clearly refined in nature and are no doubt generous contributors to society. Those who hate gin probably had a bad experience with some cheap, no name gin while in college and the results have scarred them for life. It’s happened to the best of us. I had a horrible experience with gin when I was a sophomore in college. I hated gin for years afterwards. There is hope though. I’ve recovered and evolved into a third category of people who believe that gin is one of the most versatile liquors ever to be invented. If you don’t believe me, this article’s intent is to convince you that this is, indeed, a fact.

Gin’s definition is quite simple. It is a distilled spirit that derives its predominant flavor from juniper berries and must be at least 37.5% ABV (75 Proof). For those of you who believe in the benefits added to the cocktail lexicon by flavored vodkas, it is often said that gin is the first flavored vodka. This is true since the first gins were made by distilling vodka with juniper.

So, what is juniper? Juniper is a member of the obnoxiously ancient cypress family. They first appeared on the terrestrial landscape during the Triassic Period, over 250 million years ago. At that time in Earth’s history, most of the land masses were grouped together into a single continent known as Pangea. This fact helps explain why a single species, Juniperus Communis, is native to Europe, Asia, and North America. Because juniper has been around for so long, several sub-species have evolved. The one most commonly used to make gin is called J. Communis Communis, a small shrub that can live for up to 200 years. They are dioecious, meaning that each shrub is either male or female. Pollen from the male can travel on the wind for miles to reach a female. Once pollinated, it takes two to three years to mature.

The earliest reference to the use of juniper with alcohol dates to the year 130 A.D. when the Turkish-born Greek physician Claudius Galenus wrote that juniper berries cleanse the liver and kidneys and they evidently thin any thick and viscous juices, and for this reason they are mixed in health medicines. Clearly, this was not gin, but it is evidence that alcohol and juniper have been a pair for at least a millennium. Jenever, the Dutch word for gin, is the earliest known form of gin. Created by Dutch physicians, it was a mix of juniper berries and a crudely distilled spirit that made medicines more palatable. The first documented reference to Jenever was in the early 1600’s.

The two most common methods for making gin are by distillation or by infusion. Distillation is used most often for commercially produced gin. Most commercial distilleries use column stills to make their gin. This is because column stills produce distillates more quickly and they can run continuously. Pot stills are also used, but usually for high-end or small-batch production. Infusion, often called the compound method, became popular during several tumultuous times in human history–most notably, Prohibition. Distillers found themselves steeping juniper and other ingredients in cheaply distilled spirits using any containers they could find. The term bathtub gin arose during this time as bathtubs provided a convenient and large vessel for any enterprising person who had the resources to procure the ingredients for homemade gin. Since alcoholic beverages of any kind were illegal during Prohibition, the chances of finding well-made gin produced from quality ingredients was probably very, very low. These days, it’s perfectly legal to buy a bottle of your favorite high proof vodka or moonshine and infuse it with juniper and other botanicals to make your own gin.

Speaking of botanicals, the list of botanicals used to enhance the flavor of gin is long. Here is a non-exhaustive list: orange peel, lemon peel, lime peel, grapefruit peel, anise, angelica root, angelica seeds, orris root, licorice root, cinnamon, almond, cubeb, dragon eye (longan), saffron, baobab, frankincense, coriander, grains of paradise, nutmeg, cassia bark, lavender, cardamom, caraway seeds, pink peppercorns, green peppercorns, vanilla, and hibiscus. There is no end to the combinations that can be used.

Gin is divided into several categories or styles. London Dry gin is probably what most people today think of when they think about gin. It has a legal definition. It must be distilled to at least 70% ABV, must not contain any artificial ingredients, cannot have any flavors or colorings added after the distillation process and can only include a minute amount of sugar at the end if required. The use of the name London these days does not imply geographical origin as it once did. It can be made anywhere if the requirements are met. Typical examples of this style are brands such as Beefeater, Tanqueray, and Bombay.

By contrast, Plymouth gin is geographically protected. It can only be produced in Plymouth, Devon. These days, there is only one producer responsible for making it—Coates & Co. (Plymouth) LTD. The flavor profile is similar to London Dry, though slightly sweeter and containing a different blend of botanicals with an emphasis on earthy roots and fruit-forward flavors.

Old Tom gin is an even sweeter version of London Dry. Historically, it is considered the parent of London Dry. It is sweetened to distinguish it from Plymouth and London Dry styles. Many Old Tom gins also contain citrus notes. Until recently, this style was not available outside of the United Kingdom. Today, many American distillers are producing this style, which is ideal for mixing many of the classic cocktails of the past, most notably the Tom Collins, whose original recipe called for Old Tom Gin. Examples of this gin available today are Ransom Old Tom, Barr Hill Tom Cat, and Hayman Old Tom.

For the adventurous among us, Jenever, the precursor to modern gin, is a blend of two or more distillates: the first is a whiskey-like triple distillate made from wheat, rye, and corn. The second is a juniper-infused spirit. The third, if used, is a malt wine re-distilled together with various botanicals. If whiskey and gin were to marry, this would be their lovechild. The only example I’ve seen is Genevieve. It is delicious!!

Leave it to the craft distillers in the United States to force the creation of this last category: New American Gin. It is used to describe all the new gins that have begun to push the boundaries of what was once considered gin. It is the accepted title for gins that do not fall under any of the other traditional labels. There are many outstanding examples including: Hendrick’s, Bar Hill, The Botanist, Green Hat, and Brian’s Belle Isle Gin.

What can you do with gin? A lot, in fact. During the Golden Age of Cocktails, quite a few of the so-called classics were made with gin. These classics still grace the pages of many cocktail bar menus around the world. Cocktails like The Martini, The Negroni, Tom Collins, Aviation Cocktail, Gimlet, Gibson, Hanky Panky, Singapore Sling, Vesper, Pegu Club, The Bijou, Silver Bronx, London Fog, Corpse Reviver #2, The Martinez, and The Last Word have become legendary because of their amazing balance, flavor and strength–qualities attributed to gin. The genius of The Last Word can be seen in its many, many derivatives: The Final Word, Fernetaboutit, Paper Plane, Naked and Famous, and Pete’s Word. Each of these cocktails is magical and owes a debt to a gin cocktail from a time when Vaudeville was still king.

My top five gins come from everywhere. I like them because of their flexibility and flavor. When I create cocktails that use gin, these are my top choices:

The Botanist – It’s made using 22 botanicals indigenous to the Island of Islay (Scotland). It sports some really cool, yet complex tropical notes.

Ransom Old Tom—It’s a historically accurate revival of the gin that was in fashion during the mid-1850’s, the Golden Age of American cocktails. It has aromatic juniper and forest notes. It’s very rich and silky with malt flavors punctuated by citrus, coriander, and teak. It’s made in Oregon, aged for 6-12 months in French oak barrels and all the botanicals are certified organic.

Death’s Door—Distilled from winter wheat that is native to Washington Island, Wisconsin. It’s made using only three botanicals: juniper, fennel, and coriander. The best Hanky Panky can be made using this bold distillate.

Citadelle Reserve—One of the first barrel-aged gins on the market. It’s distilled using yuzu, genepy, and cornflower. Citadelle uses a Solera aging system, a very unusual choice for gin. It’s aged for six months and is a product of France.

Green Hat—Produced using only grains, this small batch gin is pot-distilled in Washington, D. C.

One last note: Sloe Gin is not gin. It is a gin-based liqueur made using berries from the Blackthorn bush (sloe berries). It is a very sweet, thick liquid used as a mixer in cocktails and is generally low in alcohol.

So, that’s gin in a nutshell. I hope this little primer clears up any misconceptions you may have had about this amazing alcoholic concoction. I love gin and am happy to make gin cocktails for those who want to take the leap to the Dark Side. Ask your local bartender about his/her favorite classic gin cocktail to make. If they are worth their mettle, they’ll have several cocktails on the ready. Order one and prepare to be amazed.